Having recently completed a second KoTS Build I started my next project, Roden's DR1 which, at this point, I intend to finish as MVR's 152/17 in the camo/topside red finish as flown in March 1918. I commenced this build several weeks ago and have delayed the thread pending fixing of our recent site problems. I'll post the entries starting with this short intro today until caught up to "real time".
The research phase included hours of poring over previous threads mainly here on my favorite site, Aeroscale, which proved invaluable. On the minor down side this step confirmed that the kit needs no small amount of attention to correct deficiencies and inaccuraciies however none are show stoppers by any means.
Thus, the first photo, the kit firmly placed on my model desk, recently cleaned up post WNW Sopwith Pup.

The desk will not look the same until project completion; I tend to "manage by piles" and thus need to thoroughly clean up and organise my little world in between projects for sanities sake!
Thread entry #2 to follow shortly..........

Cheers,
Lance

Keeping to the Build Log Format the Reference material follows; I've accumulated a fair collection of pubs on the DR1 over the years:


In addition to these publications old (really old) copies of Air Classics amongst other magazines provided some info, and reviews of other builds and related topics proved invaluable. A build by member Kalt (Claudio Kalicinski) in October 09 gets deserved credit for inspiration and I can only hope to come even close at best to his superb production. Last, the Drome provided some great reference material, particularly the "Lap belt configuration" quandary, more of which later.
Finally, I used Martin Digmayer's excellent 1/32 Drawings in the Windsock Fokker DR.1 Jagdstaffeln Special to verify shapes and dimensions and cockpit layout. If I had to choose a single Reference for this project this outstanding publication would easily be the one and only!
Next, some details on the kit itself and planned modifications and additions.
Cheers,
Lance

And now to what came in the box and what need be added.

The sprues were reasonably flash free and the plastic proved soft and workable. Some of the tiniest bits were cracked or got so being removed from the sprues, an easily fixed problem and minor in view of the generally excellent detail.
I'll be using the Eduard Photo Etch Set, their Lacing product, and Aeroclub Instrument Bezels as well.

The Kit Decals may not be used at all (Like most others, I am not a fan of Roden's Decals); the Pheon Sheet DR1's of JGII was purchased to ensure completion if only for spare Ser. #s and Werk #s.

Several disappointments were experienced; the engine cowling is plain, (lacking the rivited face plate) and roughly finished. The benefits of having a stash solved the problem as I robbed the Encore F1 cowling (Much better but still no rivets) leaving the resin part for the F1 build.

A careful comparison of the major dimensions and shapes to the aforementioned drawings determined that generally all is well represented however the rudder was particularly inaccurate. The horizontal tail components though not 100% perfect were deemed "good enuff".
The rudder, original below and modified/corrected follows.


The stabilator and rudder as compared; too small a diversion to warrant correction IMHO.

Finally, the wing sections and fuselage were checked again and passed the test.
Next update will describe the minimal progress of the build to this point, thanks for looking and any and all comments most welcome.

Cheers,
Lance

Nice so far lance.

And a library fulll of reading too

Yes theres some innacuracies, Still It's a gem of a kit, Roden should be proud, it fired up the 1/32nd market and builds into a fair representation even without the extra's.
Everyone was overjoyed with Rodens offerings (yes theyve made a booboo or two I know) until the *I want everything perfect* behavior of so many after being spoiled by WNW (spoiled as in a spoilt child not as in ruined)

We're all well aware of Roden's shortcomings, I've several more Roden Albies I want to build unless WNW decide to produce a correct DIII and save the conversion work.. We adapt to compensate for them. I'm looking forwards to your update, I think its going to be very good, you spotted the rudder already

Just dont trust plans totally... sometimes they fib! Laughs

Next installment please.

Keith

Keith,
Absolutely agree on your comments regarding a "great kit". It truly is and probably had a lot to do with getting us all here.......supurb quality from WNW and other subjects from this Manufacturer that I for one cannot resist; wonderful combination. Things overall are very good! Their DIII (Early) was my first venture back into the Hobby after many years absent; despite some (many self induced) problems it's going to be a while before it drops from #1 on my shelf.
I have been holding back since starting this one and now will ask the question regarding the Dr. I.................... "How does the lap belt attach to the aircraft structure "??
Kalt's excellent Thread has it per his D.VII sketch, lap belts attached to the plywood seat "pan". The photo of the seat (from MVR's 425/17) in the Canadian Military Museum would seem to support this configuration as there are no "slots" visible on the sides to support the other theory; lap belts thru slots to fus. longeron or the third theory, to the angled tubular framed member on the seat support frame assembly.
I've been through all the material on the "Drome"" and also have pored over everything I can find on the Memorial Flight Dr.I Replica (which has used the "slot to longeron" configuration.

I'm wondering if you or anyone else has any definitive info on this "thing" ???

Cheers,
Lance

Lance.

Ref the seat belts The shoulder belts come through slots in the fabric closing panel behind the seat See the famous pic (Pic 60 in the windsock datafile special...FokkerDR.I) of Gontermanns wreck. Lap belts as always have been a bone of contention and much discussion has ensued on many forums. I chose to portray them as bolted to the seatbase beneath the cushion purely on a personal preference (Another stalled build I need to attend to LOL)

Hello Lance,

Nice to see you busy with the Dr.I – it is one I also am very fond of, though as you and Keith pointed out it has its shortcomings. Like what you've started here.

Mikael

Hello Lance:

Shortcomings not withstanding, as others have said, it builds into a nice model. I like the kit, and ordered the Encore release of it from Squadron. I will be watching yours as you work through it. Have fun with it.

Best

Mark

Keith,
I have several photos including the Gontermann one you mention that clearly provide the Shoulder Harness configuration; as you say the Lap Belt portion appears to remain a mystery. Hard to believe.
I am, like you, leaning towards the attachment beneath the cushion to the seat base/pan. The photo of MVR's seat I referenced has ply missing exactly where the metal attachment would have been, None of the original photos show any evidence of slots in the seat sides nor attachments to the seat frame supports or a fuselage longeron that I can discern...........process of elimination??!!??
Cheers,
Lance

Next to describe the initial steps of the build. First the fuselage halves were prepared; sink marks filled, and sprayed with a coat of Humbrol #74 Linen. On viewing the results I'm tempted to tone it down with a mix including light grey to reduce the "yellow " effect - plenty of time left for that prior to installing the frame members.


I'd like to say I planned to miss the ejector pin detents visible in the photo above and thus the plan to repaint the inside walls a "greyer" yellow was part of the bigger plan all along.................... I'll be filling and sanding and re-painting tomorrow he said as he tried to remember how old he is!
The plywood forward fuselage fairings were scratched and the frames as well.the PE frame members were too thin to provide the relief I wanted. They are "posed" here to illustrate.

The horizontal stab required some repair to fill the recessed portion in the top middle, not sure why Roden carried the recess for assembly to the fuselage around to both top and bottom. This was a quick fix with Evergreen sheet styrene and green putty.


Next the seat and supporting frame were completed. A plain seat cushion was scratched from styrene (none was provided in the kit) and lacing installed on the fabric "baffle" behind the seat using very light monofilament.

This morning I completed the engine and have the guns near completion. The engine is very nicely rendered and required only stainless steel wire added for the spark plug wires. Gawd!!! These digitals show too much detail at times......note to self, cleaner finishes need be strived for! Cylinder portion was sprayed Humbrol Gun Metal, various silver tones and Aluminum were used to pick out detail, and some black soot pigment rubbed over the face of the crank case for contrast.

This Thread is now more or less caught up to where I'm actually at in the build; now to work on the cockpit modules.
So far a nicely produced kit.
Cheers,
Lance

Quick question to all the supporters out there; any informed perspective on the color of the "streaking " on DR.I's? References depict the full spectrum from a mainly brown to mainly green "tone". I did a Dragon 1/48th kit years ago and used 2 parts Model Master French Khaki 2106 to 1 part RAL Schokoladenbraun 2096. On viewing it now it appears too "greenish" to me.Following photos capture the color pretty well.


Any suggestions or even mix formulas as I think ahead to that stage?
Any and all suggestions welcome.
Cheers,
Lance

Hello Lance:

I like the seat work. The lacing is noteworthy with the desired effect. I am getting the Encore F-1 and will be watching as you continue this build. I can't offer tips on the painting of the streaking. Always a challeng with mixed results.

Best
Mark

Mark,
Can't believe I"ve bought the Encore F.1, SE 5a, and the Alb DII over the last several months as they went on sale for 49.95 and now the're on for 19.99?!?
My theory was they would shortly be going OOP; that may be so however my wallet sure wishes I had waited for this excellent deal. (difference could be measured in another WNW Kit and some after market decals!?)
I'm working on the cockpit presently; lots of trouble with the very delicate frame members etc. I'm doing more repairs then building at this point.

Cheers,
Lance

Finally got back to this project, unexpected company and a couple of minor real life interuptions are now fortunately well behind.
As planned the next stage was the cockpit and it is finally done. The kit construction and delicate tube frame did not lend itself to my initial approach/plan, to build the cockpit as a "module "and then drop it into the fuselage. Rather the cockpit components were built onto the fuselage sides (predominently the right side) and once completed the fuselage halves will be joined.
The delicate tube frame proved a challenge, lots of repairs required beginning at removal from the sprues and even more during detailled construction. All tube frame components were painted "grey-green" and the Eduard Photo Etch Set was used extensively. With the exception of the forward fuselage plywood fairing frames the Photo Etch Set proved excellent.
The following photos will provide a reasonable version of the builds progress to date. I apologise for the generally poor photos; the weather has precluded any natural light photos and I reasoned that, these being "in progress" shots, there would be little point in preparing a "pristine" setting!
The following detail the left fus. side. Prior to detailling the interior was re-coated with a much lightened shade of the previous Humbrol Linen. Throttle and aux. fuel control were "scratched", throttle quadrant and magneto are combinations of the Eduard PE Set and scratch built components. Happy to say I got to use the Waldron Punch Set again and also the Etch Mate throughout.


The floor and seat were contructed as a "module" and attached to the right fuselage side. A few Aeroclub Instrument Bezels got used, all flight control details scratched in, and the fuel manual pump was scratch built to replace the incoreect version supplied. I should add at this point that I chose (IMHO) "the best of all options on instrument placement and cockpit layout. I was shocked at the wide choice of options presented in all the very credible references available. In the end I opted for a combination of the Windsock Data, Kalts build mentioned earlier, and a large measure of the Memorial Flight Data. This applies to the wiring and aux. throttle control on the joystick as well. I noted at least 3 separate approaches to these details in various (Credible?!) references.
The starboard side, in all her glory......................





Finally a quick shot of the Mated (taped only) fuselage halves. The upper frame members will be bent into alignment with the joints on the opposite half when permanently joined.

So far all is going reasonably well however very slowly. This kit still impresses me however requires much extra effort to get to the standard of the WNW Products. You can't beat, however, the subject; it is after all a 1/32 DR.1 and I really like that part!
More to follow, hopefully a little faster then the last interval. As always Thanks for looking and all comments most welcome.

Cheers,
Lance

Looking very busy and correct. Cockpit layout like seatbelt arrangements on this have been the subject of much discussion. Yes I agree the paler linen is a great improvement. Keep at it

Greetings Lance,

Good work so far and to any one interested please remember that the seat cushion on many of the late Dr.I airframes was the Heineke parachute pack. Check your sources for the introduction to front lin use. The lap straps were probably routed over the arm rests. Also on the shoulder straps.

Thanks Stephen.
I chose the lap belt configuration (attached to seat pan underneath the cushion) based on all the logic espoused in my 05 Dec comments and also feedback from Keith(Kornbeef). From what I can gather til now, were still not able to positively say where the lap belts attached; to the seat, to the seat support frame members or one of several possible ways to one of the longerons. It's puzzling to me that we can't determine the correct or genuine option employed given the incredible expertise of our many enthusiasts, authors, and historians that we've had the privilege of following over the years. On the other hand, the 100th anniversary of WWI is close at hand, it's been a long time since the real article(s) were in service. I had hoped to get a more informed bit of info from the 425/17 seat here in Canada, however it is apparent that like the rest of the Baron's aircraft, it was badly souvineered right from the time of his fall. The one fact that stands out is the absence of slots for the lap portion to pass thru enroute to the seat frame or a longeron which confirms your comment regarding the belts resting on/passing over the armrest portions of the seat.
All this to say "the only thing were sure of is were not sure.........."! From my perspective it's stuff like this that makes for fun in this hobby; I spent hours poring over the Refs, searching on line, and generally learning a great deal over this little challenge which for me is time happily spent! Thanks for taking the time to help out with the quandary.
BTW I noted in the extensive dialogues on this topic on the "other" site that the tone of many comments was a far cry from what is consistently and pleasantly found here; yet another reason Aeroscale is so succesful.
Last, I just noticed on reviewing the seat photos from my thread that a shoulder harness buckle was bent out of position; it's now back in place.

Cheers,
Lance

Thanks for the positive feedback Keith. I like the paler shade much more as well. As for the cockpit layout I believe no one can say you are wrong as long as a studious process of elimination is applied. Per my comments to Stephen, I believe we are just never sure on a lot of this stuff!

Cheers,
Lance

You will also note that some of the thin lap belts & shoulder harness straps were removed and only wider lapbelts used. Haupt, Bolle's bird is one such example.

Stephen,
Can you point me towards a reference for the belt set up in Bolle's bird? I'm already planning a second run at this kit and would like to see the alternative configuration. (I'll definitely do a WNW project next, for morale's sake however this is a really good kit as well and I want Lothar's yellow 454/17 and/or Steinhauser's later 564/17 on the shelf. At the rate I produce and my sort of older status (my optomotrist told me yesterday I am getting "wiser", not "older " in her polite oriental perspective) it may never happen however I could always hire Warreni; he'd build a beautiful fleet in 1/10th the time!!
Cheers,
Lance

The shot of Bolle's Dr.I 413/17 is from my archives. But for all things Fokker Dr.I see here.

I must have looked at this photo a hundred times in the past and never noticed the wide Lap Belt......Doh!!!
Thanks for the info kind Sir!
Cheers,
Lance

I built the Revell 1/28th as Carl Bolle's bird years ago, thats what hooked me on WWI aviation, thought it was fantastic tthen, oh how we learn

Small world!
I did the 'trio" , Revell 1/28th Camel, Tripe, and Spad over a 3 month period back in the early 70s. They were built to be hung from the cieling in my Son's bedroom and started my insane preoccupation with all things WWI Aviationish. ( I was a WWII guy previous) I havn't looked back but I'll bet they are still a fairly decent kit!?

Cheers,
Lance

Hello Lance,

This build is progressing really well in my eyes. That cockpit looks absolutely superb, and the added detail gives a busy look that I like.

Regarding the colour for the streaks... I have'nt dug too deep into what the sources say, but there seems to be some different interpreteations. One being that the steraks were actually done in two tone – one green and one brown... Anyway in the past when I did my Fokker steraks, I used Humbrol enamel no 155.

The result was pretty much similar to what you've shown – perhaps a tad more olive in hue. I figure if you want a browner shade – mix some chocolate brown in. I think about 2 parts olive green to one part brown, an see what happens.

I guess you can also have a look at this for a colour reference: streaky cammo review

Hope my ramblings are helpful

Best Regards

Mikael