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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
The Homecoming
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 12:07 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 12:28 AM UTC
This pic shows various areas that I have thinned out from the bottom to represent areas of extreme corrosion or complete break through on the metal skin.To get the corrosion effect do not break through but thin it down with a burr to almost the break through point.The heat of the burr will raise the surface plastic.
The complete breakthrough technique has also been used on plastic airplanes to represent damaged and bullet holes on an aluminum skin.(see Shep Paines B17)
Where you see the 2 pieces of wood in the picture,this is where the main wooden square support posts are to be anchored.Note the two square holes in the cars structure next to the wood.
The complete breakthrough technique has also been used on plastic airplanes to represent damaged and bullet holes on an aluminum skin.(see Shep Paines B17)
Where you see the 2 pieces of wood in the picture,this is where the main wooden square support posts are to be anchored.Note the two square holes in the cars structure next to the wood.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 12:51 AM UTC
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Here are some of the extensive mods that I have had to make to the seats and floorboard areas.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 - 12:59 AM UTC
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Wooden anchor posts that line up with the original seat backs on the drawing.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 12:09 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 12:48 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 12:52 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 01:01 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 11:46 PM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 11:53 PM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 11:56 PM UTC
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Removed by original poster on 03/23/12 - 12:40:38 (GMT).
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 - 11:22 PM UTC
Because I may never have a chance to do this again,I have decided to take this example a little further than I had originally planned and spent all day yesterday(and more) re-designing and aging this Ford T.It will now be more rusted out and extremely weathered.I am using it as a "scrap yard "truck which is appropriate for the condition it will be in.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 05:56 AM UTC
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It seems like the more I work on this the smaller it gets.Parts of the fenders have been removed right back to the frame and a new running board in wood has been added on the other side.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 06:11 AM UTC
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The wood block was used to help me locate the truck body to the frame.It is not glued but screwed in and is removable.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 06:25 AM UTC
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The next important measurement will be from the dash to the back of the seat where the rear wall of the cab will be built in wood.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 07:23 AM UTC
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Ford would sell you something like this (new of course) to build your own truck on.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 - 12:28 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
AeroScale: 3,915 posts
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 - 12:33 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
AeroScale: 3,915 posts
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 - 12:41 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 - 12:57 AM UTC
I am not that familiar with the 1:1 scale T but if it is anything like my real model "A" everything else is bolted on including the fenders.I guess if you wanted fenders on your basic chassis you could put them on yourself.
I roughed up the bottom surface with a rotary burr and re-painted it to see how it looks.It looks ok so I did the same to the top surface.If when I paint the top it looks too rough I can always sand it down a little.
The wood block and screw will be removed prior to completion.
I roughed up the bottom surface with a rotary burr and re-painted it to see how it looks.It looks ok so I did the same to the top surface.If when I paint the top it looks too rough I can always sand it down a little.
The wood block and screw will be removed prior to completion.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
AeroScale: 3,915 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 01:12 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
AeroScale: 3,915 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 - 04:31 AM UTC
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This is where it will eventually go.
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
AeroScale: 3,915 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 05:54 AM UTC
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dolly15
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Joined: May 20, 2004
KitMaker: 8,227 posts
AeroScale: 3,915 posts
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Posted: Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 01:08 AM UTC
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