I've been tracking this also. Amazing work and very well described for those who wish to follow.

Thanks Terri & Russ.

Working here on kit motor mods. The kit motor fits under the kit cowling. But if you use the Loon cowling you will have to take 1/16" off the top of the tappets. Also I "twist" the push rod stems so they are slightly off set. Unless you cut them free and reposition them entirely this is the best choice.

Early production build needing some gauges, and the cockpit coaming. Maybe a facade for the fuel tank behind the firewall. There should be tubes for the spent shells as well.

The actual firewall could be noted as coming in 2 parts.

1. the wall behind the motor.

2. The tray below the center of the main wall that kept the rotary exhaust out of the interior of the cockpit.

The cooling holes in the main wall were designed for air flow cooling the cylinders. Since the exhaust was set at the 4,5, & 6 O'clock positions the vented chin cowl was of course to spill the exhaust under the belly of the fuselage. The oil / main fuel & reserve tanks were kept from the build up of heat off the motor by the circulating air. The image below will illustrate this.



I have seen one reserve tank for sure and am suspicious there was another. One for fuel, one for oil. The main tank was internally divided for fuel & oil.

Interiors almost complete. Starting to add HGW dark wood decal over basic grey. It gets pretty dark almost like the "piano" finish described in the Swiss reports of the interned birds. I have to check all surfaces of the early production build to make sure its ready for white paint on the fuselage.

Kit engine with minor mods. Basic clean up and paint of kit engine. Push rod stems twisted to get the angle needed and the shafts replacing the plastic items are cut metal wire.

Here is a bit of fun with the Roden kit backdated with the Loon resin parts kit #32006 to an "early" production 8346/17. More to come.

Hi Stephen

Looking good. There's a bit of anhedral to sort out, but I'm sure you're aware of that. I'm guessing the wings are only tacked in place so far - otherwise, a bit of brute force while no-one's looking (who hasn't resorted to that on occasion? )

All the best

Rowan

Rowan, I always get a kick out of your assumptions.

With the exception of some minor touch ups I'll call this build done. More build images are in the Roden 1/32 SSW D.III 2 builds album on FB.

This Roden kit was backdated to one of the early production machines (8346/17 to be exact) One of 2 such machines delivered to Jasta 19 by 6 April 1918. It was assigned to Ltn. Walter Goettsch the unit commander. He fell in action on 10 April 1918 flying his usual Fokker Dr.I triplane 419/17 The white was his personal color. It is likely he had only a few familiarization flights but no combats in this machine. Its ultimate fate is unknown but like other SSW D.III types assigned to JG.II was probably returned to the factory for refitting new wings, engines and modifications recommended by the front line pilots.

Lozenge wing camouflage decals from HGW.
Natural linen ribtapes laid under the lozenge to add rib detail from HGW.
Backdating resin set from Loon Models a Roll Models subsidiary. (Cowling, wing tips, ailerons, horizontal stabilizer, elevator). #LO32006.
Brass PE detail set from Brengun. An excellent product. #BRL32014
Instrument Gauge faces from Airscale.
Instrument Bezels from HGW.
National markings from the spares folder or modified items.
Rigging is "Toothy Critter" leader material. Set #15.









This brings an end to this build.

Cheers Stephen

So it was Plan B then. It certainly does look a lot healthier. I'm casting a wary eye ahead on the AEG, with those big heavy wings looming ever closer...

All the best

Rowan

Thinner & Heavy wings means the rigging has to be functional to some degree. Hence the stainless steel leader line like I used on this and the Roden 1/32 Pfalz D.III (back in 2007). Forcing is a bad choice. Gently cradling the wings with functional rigging is the ticket. Of course the wing attachment has to be plumb and square.

Pfalz build here.

It looks beautiful. Thank you for the history on the build as well. It is nice to learn the history behind a particular subject.

Cheers Stephen

Yep - while the AEG's wings aren't thin, they are certainly heavy. So I'm psyching myself up for my most major rigging project to-date. I've been reading up on how to make functional turn buckles etc. - Des Delatorre's tutorials over on WW1 Aircraft Models are excellent, and the section in Dani Zamarbide's new FAQ book that arrived today also gives an essential grounding for newcomers to the black art like myself.

All the best

Rowan

For functional turnbuckles try GasPatch products like the ones announced here. As to the Wombat method I found it lacking.

Hi Stephen

I've got a little stash of GasPatch ones. I used a couple for the interior. Wonderful little gems.

But, equally, I'm keen to have a try at making some by hand.

All the best

Rowan

Another enjoyable project Stephen





Terri

Thanks Teri.

Done!