Here is my Revell H-34.

Let me know if it´s possible to build an Egyptian/Sirian Mig-15 UTI?
TIA

I started and already will need to spend MUCH TIME to sanding and filling. This kit must have been using an OLD mold, it has warps and not much in QC

Bob

Jose; That would be fine, as long as it's in '67 markings.

Bob; Yeah, that's a pretty old mold. Good luck with it, I have faith in you!

Michael

Michael, you probably have stock in a putty company . It will not be as bad as I thought, this Tamiy putty and the Liquitex are doing a great job.

Bob

Reposting photos:

Lots more putty to fix the gaps and uneven surfaces:

Coming along nicely Bob! More than I can say for the Eduard Mirage which is... behaving badly.

So, with a couple of months to go, I'm switching my build to the Dragon 1/32 M3A1 halftrack:



I have a small start on it, basically step 1, some of the front end parts and drive sprockets. Way less than 25%:



I'll be doing Col. Motta Gur's halftrack in the Battle for Jerusalem:





Hopefully this will go better.

Michael

Hi Guys, WIP update, finished the glue part. I am trying the black/white technique for a second time

If I am reading this correctly then the following would OK schemes.

Bob,

I believe so.

Michael

Some progress on the Dragon M3A1 halftrack:





The tracks and running gear turned out to be something of a chore but I think I figured out a good sequence for getting them together. Let me know if you want me to post that.

Michael

Tips from the trenches always helpful, Michael!

Clayton,

Well, OK, since you ask.

If you're building or planning to build the Dragon M2/3/etc. halftrack I've come up with what I think is a good way to tackle the tracks and running gear. The tracks on this kit are hard plastic and come in two halves for each side, an inside and outside part. The instructions on putting this all together are typical Dragon, a fairly large exploded assembly drawing with arrows but no clear order in which things should be done. By trial and error, I came up with this method:

Assemble chassis and power train, including axles for drive sprockets and idler wheels, as per the instructions.

Assemble the idler wheels and drive sprockets per the instructions, but shave off the locater pin inside the drive sprocket assemblies where they will attach to the axle. They aren't necessary and could interfere with fit later.

Assemble the bogie units as per instructions EXCEPT do not attach the return rollers to the top. Glue the roller units together, but DON’T add them to the bogie units yet.

DON’T glue the bogie units to the frame yet.

Glue the tracks together. Let everything set up tight.

Insert the drive sprocket and idler wheel into the tracks. Make sure the outsides of the wheels (the drive sprockets have bolt detail on the outside but not on the inside) are facing out on each side of the vehicle. Push them fully into place hard against the inside of the tracks and glue them there.

Insert the bogie units inside the tracks, do not glue them yet.

Assemble the entire track/running gear unit to the chassis, gluing the drive sprocket and idler wheel to their respective axles and lining up and gluing the bogie units to the frame and track.

Once all is set up, add the return rollers to the top of the bogie units and inside of tracks.

I tried doing it by putting the wheels and bogie units on, then sliding the inside track halves around them. This was a bad idea and nearly led to broken axles. Luckily the sprocket and idler wheels were still freshly enough glued to allow me to slide them off. The method above worked quite well for me once I'd figured it out. Hope it does for you as well!

Michael

That is worth trying on a LOT of tracked vehicles...great tip!

Primed and first color applied XF-52 to be followed by a custom mix of OD.

Getting close to being completed:



Tracks, little paint, antenna and more weathering to do...

Looking great, Pasi!

I agree with Clayton.

Bob

Was able to get the a/b to work even since I did not take it apart after the last session. It needs to be cleaned now though.

Looking great, Bob!

Thanks Clayton and Bob.

I think this is now done:



Friul tracks took about five hours to build; nevertheless they were lot easier to do than I anticipated (two part axles and two parts for each track link). Anyway, easy and fun kit. My only criticism to the kit is that headlight cages are on thick side, shackle mounting points are solid and some minor details are missing.

The are three other pictures in campaign gallery

Had fun following other builds in the campaign. Thanks for the campaign.

Beautiful work, Pasi!

Pasi,.... I like your Tamiya ISherman... The metal tracks look a lot better then my rubber kit ones... My next AFV will have metal tracks...
Great work!

Very nice, Pasi!

By the way, the Israelis never called it an "Isherman", just an M51. The only Sherman they referred to as a "Super-Sherman" was the M1 (their designation) which was essentially an M4A1E8 (76).

Thus endeth the lesson.

Michael (in a pedantic mood)