The Splinter in the Mind's Eye
I. Realism vs. Scale Realism
How do you escalate from ‘Nice’ to “WOW!” First you have to decide that you want to improve, especially if it’s a stretch of your talents. This may be a large step for some but recognizing you want to improve your skills or technique is the first step. As a modeler you want someone to see an image of the original item in a scaled down version. The oldest means we have of this is photography. So looking at a two dimensional image is the basis on which you can construct your developing skills.

The Splinter in the Minds Eye of a modeler is that intangible and sometimes inescapable concern that your mind readily tells you that an object is or is not a model. But before you start singing the Metaphysical Blues, there are ways that you can recondition your view point. Start by looking at the real thing or at least photos of it. Focus on the finer details and the relative size of each object or fitting. Next, talk to other modelers. Internet sites, model clubs and contests all provide excellent opportunities to hear other modelers relate their insights and techniques. Finally, read about other modelers and what they do. The vast amount of publications available to the average modeler is at an all time high. Personally I recommend anything by ComSam Publishing. They cater to the modeler by supplying them with all the best information.

It is just a model, until the builder begins to pour their talents into the kit’s construction. What your asking yourself here is, can I do better? When your finished with a build does it look like a dime store toy? Again look at some of your past works and ask your self, what about this is out of proportion? What details are too large to be believable? Does this look like the original full sized machine? Remember that even a good photograph image only gives the viewer a general impression of the original machine from one vantage point. What you want to do is create a striking 3 dimensional image that compels the viewer to enjoy the work you have done.

Don’t be misled, no amount of detail can correct a lifeless composition. Also understand that not every color scheme is eye catching or interesting. Monotones have highlights and shadows. Can you duplicate this by studying how light effects a surface? The answer is Yes! What does the eye see? Your brain adjusts for changes in light and surface orientations. With practiced painting applications of highlights and pre-shading can you create an illusion that makes the observer think that he sees what he ought to see on the full scale version.

What makes it believable? Understanding the term ‘Relative Scale’ applies to more than just painting. It also involves the size of an object compared to the other items around it. Even their gap or positioning from one another tells the viewer something. Also Subtle effects do more than drastic changes. Balance your work with the realization that you have limitations that need to be dealt with. Time, eyesight and dexterity are your personal hurdles that can impair an enjoyable build. The tools you have to compensate for these deficiencies are planning, magnification, tweezers.

The real aim is to please yourself. Have you achieved the goal set for yourself? Are you happy with the result or do you want to improve your skills? If you decide that you want to go a step further then look at what are you willing to put into a project. Remember that cost is not a good indicator of the quality of a kit. Great art work on a box top belies a poorly manufactured kit. Stick with the better or more reliable manufacturers. Evaluate the kit for what you want out of it. Ask yourself ‘...will it need additions, what will you have to scratch build or buy to make it right? Even the oldest name companies put out a bad kit once in a while. Improving one of these will make you a better modeler. Eventually you will ask, are you building for yourself or are you building to compete with others? Contests will allow you to compete with other modelers but you will learn quickly to keep your build simple to start. Put a short paragraph with a description of your work beside the model. Contest judges can’t read your mind-and sometimes have lost theirs.

The place to start is with the kit. No kit, no build. We have come a long way from yesterday’s toys. These model kits were plastic only, oversized detailed and had few parts
Today‘s kit is multi media , better scale details and has an average of 3 to 4 times as many parts. A model use to begin with a carved wooden version then the mold was made from steel and carved in matching half reliefs. The industry is no longer “computer aided” it is fast becoming “computer controlled.”

Basics, Basics , Basics!!!! Begin by erasing seams, fill holes and union seams and gaps, thin down edges, for a better scale appearance and pay close attention to alignment. One of the sharpest modelers I know told me that he spent most of his time cleaning up a kit. Erasing flaws, sink marks, pin ejector marks, mold seams, flash, mis-mating parts re-cutting misaligned strut holes and etc. Its up to you to say when you’ve invested enough time in your project.

When sanding union seams or gaps protect the detail you want with masking tape. ‘Truing to Square’ is the process of checking and rechecking alignment planes. This just makes the build more life like in the end. During this process you may fine that you have to re-drill strut locator holes While real aircraft took abuse the only reason for twisted wings, empennage or etc. is a wreck. Keep it straight and plumb using a temporary jig made from children’s plastic ‘Lego’ blocks.

Repeating my earlier statement, learn to balance your work with the realization that you have limitations that need to be dealt with. Time, eyesight and dexterity are your personal hurdles that can impair an enjoyable build. In the planning stages use the kit instructions to document what you have done, will do, wont do by colour coding your steps with pastel high-lighters. Pink=complete, yellow=delete Green=scratch-build/alter & blue= replace with an existing kit item. Magnify by using an ‘Optivisor’, to bring your work closer and you make your problems small by making minute corrections. Using tweezers and needle nose pliers / cutters helps you place a part exactly where it needs to be.

Understanding Relative Scale begs the question, ‘..is everything on the model in relative scale or proportional to the whole piece? Photo references are the answer. Start at the library, aviation specialty stores the internet or hobby shops. Their books, magazines and after market decals should get you started. Is the gap between the wings too deep? Are the struts to thick? It’s the gap from spreader bar to cowling correct. The over all ‘sit’ of the model compels the brain to view the object as ‘similar’ to the images its familiar with.

Piece by piece going from nose to tail helps you examine the over all proportion and type of modifications that you want to attempt. Propellers can be laminated from light & dark woods and carved to shape. Even painting the kit item to simulate the laminations is relatively easy. Motors should have details like wiring, nuts & bolts. Various shades of metal is a subtle effect that can be very convincing. Don’t go too far with the dirt & grime simulations.

For cockpits, planning is the whole key. Often sidewalls are too thick and interior pieces are jammed together that in reality were separated. You may need to carve out the cockpit interior for better simulations. Fuselage/ Wings are critical and need to be represented accurately. Achieving wood grain simulation and fabric character in scale is another hurdle for building a unique model. Most often the manufacturers do a reasonable job of replicating these concerns but may need to be toned down by gentle sanding as they tend to be overstated. The reason for this is the manufacturer try’s to envision the piece as finally being painted and accentuating the details will allow them to be prominent even under a thick coat of paint. Even wheels need attention. Kit items always have that annoying seam but are not as difficult to deal with as some might lead you to believe. To use it as is, with an airbrush go to an art or office supply store and pick up a circle template. To brush paint it use a 01 or 00 brush and paint the outer rim first then fill in the rest to the center. You can paint them in 15 minutes and make people think it took hours. Also if your machine is to be displayed parked note the angle of the tires. Many are slightly toed in at the top.

Painting or its application tend to fend off younger modelers. The old Revell and Airfix knew this and all of their old line of 1/72 kits were in colored plastic. For that matter so did Aurora. Today each paint application system (acrylics vs enamels). has its own pros & cons. Once you learn to work with acrylics you will find that they are worth the time spent. Concerning flats vs gloss in smaller scales I tend to use very little gloss unless its to put down a uniform surface for decal purposes. I’m a firm believer in the flat to semi gloss look for aircraft kits. Sooner or later you should buy an airbrush. The simpler the operation the better. Brush painting is an art form in and of itself. Use the company’s recommended thinner for the paint you have chosen. I have my paint bottles in a rack on their side and I turn them ½ turn about once a week. The color has been applied to the tops of the bottle cap so they can be readily identified. Avoid contamination with other solvents.

First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings.

Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.

When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.

The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry.

Struts are the bane and pain. The battle-cry of the neophyte modeler - “I can’t do that, it has all those struts!” Several methods are used with struts. I will either replace kit items with modified brass sections or put brass rod in all the ends of the kit struts. This reinforces your work but also gives your struts an adjustable (by bending) pivot that works to your advantage, especially when your kit has dihedral, forward or reverse stagger. When you have all strut locator holes in the right places and the cabane struts are fixed at the right angles, everything else should go great.

Once the basics are done well, then the details can make the difference. The mirror trick is the modeler’s method of checking themself. Holding a finished model up to a mirror simply forces you to take a critical look at your work. Seeing it from a different perspective looking for flaws that you can correct. It ain’t over til you say it is.

Words of wisdom.....

Greetings all;

Though I would not say wisdom, this is the way I do most of my builds. If you can glean any good from it please feel free. If you have another way to do any of this, feel free to post it here. Mine are not the ultimate words in building. I am constantly impressed with other modelers here. My opinions are just a start.

Greetings all;

It is cold and a heavy snow fall is in progress near my hangar office tonight. I have a new 4 inch thick candle and the tuna can base has been replaced with an empty pie plate from the mess. My Batman, Ursula has just thrown another log on the fire. As I look out my office window the airfield light are halo-ed in a warm glow.

Colonel Camelhill is out in his corner of the hangar looking quizically under the tarps containing his unfinished Fokker D.VII (OAW)and Sopwith Camel F.1 with his military issue electric torch.

I am drawing up a training seminar based on an indepth look at building WWI aviation subjects. It occurs to me that you the membership might have specific requests for topical subjects. If someone has done something you admire perhaps wee can prevail on them to give us a quick review. Engines, wings, rigging, painting, markings and cockpits are just a few subject of note.

Well got to go folks my Batwoman says my bath is drawn.

Greetings all;

Its a grand soft day here in my corner of the Aeroscale airfield. Typically there are several kits in progress and I have done some few parts today. There has been some turmoil in the billets lately but thats also typical. The coffee is hot, French bread, stew and chilli are the fare this evening. For desert lemonade, apple and or cherry pies.

The subject of this memo is burnout. That dread affliction first diagnosed in 1916 by Dr. Hertz Van Rental while he was but an intern at Sister Consumpta's free clinic / bar and grill. It is noted in that with the diagnosis of AMS (Advanced Modeler's Syndrome) that the patient may find that there develops dry and scaly (1/72) patches. This is often accompanied by bouts of lacko-ntrest in modeling. These are but symptoms of larger issues.

Most critically is the visual aspect of wide open pupils, noting verbally "...I will never build all of these kits..."

The road map to modeling longevity is a healthy outlook.
1. Never let healthy competition (contests) and their out come taint your enjoyment of the build.

2. Build for yourself, but never be afraid to try new things. Variety is the spice.

3. Stay out of ruts. Consume solid norishment and beware of fast internet feeding frenzys. Take your reference information first hand not the from 30 year old speculations and regurge that lead to disappointment when you discover your triplane should be red and white not blue and white.

4. Have a life away from modeling. Life is short and you can't take anything with you when you go. Enjoy yourself.

5. Nothing is permanent, there is always room for one more build.

6. Revisit an old friend. take one of your favorites down from the shelf and build it without aftermarket PE, resin or decals. Out of the Box therapy.

7. Evaluate your condition and pick the therapy that gives you the fresh perspective.

8. Never mix alcohol and cyano...it does not make a better bonding agent. Trust me on this one.

9. Visit the Aeroscale hangar and peek under the tarps...Especially over on Merlin's side...

10. Have fun, its a hobby enjoy the praises and critiques of people you admire. Never take anything personally.


Thats it for today mousekateers. My Batwoman Ursula advises me the bath is ready.

What makes a satisfying build?

As I stand CQ tonight my mind takes me back to the heady days on campus when I was teaching classes on the subject of WWI aviation modeling. Back in those days I had a generous grant to support my studies of the mating habits of the full breasted coed... Ah the after class gathering of some of my target studies in the Starbucks across campus.

I remember one of the underclassmen asking me, "... What makes a satisfying build?.."

For an old AMS hound like me its getting it right. Having a plan for the build and accomplishing it. In truth its just the attitude of the modeler. Whatever satisfies you.

Whether its a whole squadron line up of the same model, or every aircraft flown by Ernst Udet or George Guynemer, a tricked out total build or just a modified kit with some aftermarket pieces. Just getting it to look like the vision you planned. Yes Ursula I know ...just finishing up. Got to go folks.

November 21, 2006

Status Report for:

Aeroscale Early Aviation hangar

Conversion of the old supply room into an office... 50% complete. Wet bar ordered from supply. Wine cellar / bomb shelter ... 50% complete. Stores on order.

Eduard Fokker D.VII Combo... 50% complete See Col. Camelhill - Baylies for update.

Eduard Camel F.1 Combo ... 50% complete See Col. Camelhill - Baylies for update.

Eduard Fokker D.VII Royal 100% complete.

Edaurd Sopwith Profipack and Blue Max kitcrash 2F.1...100% complete.

Eduard Nieuport 17 Limited Edition "Flyboys" ...100% complete.

Gavia Pfalz E.I ...50% complete.

Lozenge Camouflage instructional...in progress.

Monthly CQ duties ..complete.

Monthly required flight time... 90% complete. Two hours schedule tonight in a familiarization flight.

For the record: Major Stephen T. Lawson (callsign JackFlash)

"Yes Ursula, I am on my way."

Greetings all;

As I look out my window here at the Aeroscale Hangar I am going through my stack of mail. Imagine my joy at receiving my promotion notice. Full bird, Wow! Ursula my Batman / Orderly is prepping my uniforms even as I write this. The 18 inches of snow and the holiday carol-lers under a light pole outside the hangar add to the festivity. The ground crew has a tree decorated with popcorn garlands and cranberries outside my office. The Mess Sgt has French bread, salami and cheese with fresh hot coffee and sweet potato pie for midnight chow.

While the Pfalz E. project is moving along I uncrated a 1/48 Planet Models, Rumpler C.IV today and began prepping it for the new year. Jean-Luc has asked me for some text on a portfolio project. I just got a memo that big publisher has contracted with a friend of mine to do a book on 2nd Lt. Frank Luke. I also have been asked by a publisher to provide a draft concerning a WWI pilot for consideration. Also a change has taken place at Aeromaster / Eagle Strike.

In the almost finished corner I have several 1/48 Roden kits that I intend to unveil next year. I must close for now ...bit of something going on in the hangar. Ursula and her all-girl ground crew are involved in a game of bikini twister... I need to throw some wood in the hangar stove.

Greetings all;
Operations Memo from the Aeroscale Early Aviation Air Board
Now that the contest is done we all settle in for a long winter's bout of reading, research and roosting at our hobby desks.

The First Eartly Aviation Campaign is next on our agenda. It will run from Jan 3 to June 30, 2007. The subject matter concerns victors and victims of Bloody April 1917.

Next we have planned for 2007 several photoetch, scratchbuilding, and conversion "how to's" ...classes... tutorials.

Plans are in the early stages for a bigger Aeroscale Early Aviation Contest for 2007 beginning about Aug. 1 - Nov. 30, 2007.

We also have several full blown kit reviews in the wings...well we are "Aero"-scale right?

"For Your Eys Only"
It has been confirmed that several scale model WWI aviation supply depots and distribution centers have gone through drastic changes.

Rosemont Hobbies is not the only one to change owners. Still some hush-hush here still. Though production and sales are not supposed to change. Eduard has not only slashed its prices but has another big surprise for us in 2007. "Stay tuned."

Americal/Gryphon has announced it is closing its doors at the end of this year. Really folks, get them while you can. No word on the status of their decals after Dec. 31, 2006. Dragon evidently has put out some inquiries as relating to their old "Knights of the Sky " series to model co. that have or have had contracts with Dragon.

The trend for model companies to try 1/32 scale seems to be drying up and they are just waiting to see the publics reactions kits that have already produced in 2006. Several resin 1/32 WWI aviation kits that have been promised for a couple of years by a small concern in France are still far from production though masters are done.

I have persuaded a top notch research fiend and historian to report for TDY here abouts.

Drat! the wind blew the candle out! Well enough for now...

Greetings all;
What do you need to build Early Aviation stringbags or any model venue for that matter? Most modelers have a corner of a room. Many ony have a card table. I was 43 before I decided to finally have a permanent desk structure. The point is, I was building contest quality kits long before I had a permanent area to do so.

It is the skill and keen eye that needs to be developed. The quickest way to be knocked out of competition is if your build has perceived issues with not being square or plumb. For instance if the wings are not perpendicular to the centerline (union seams) of the fuselage. If the horizontal tail plane is not horizontal (one side is higher or lower than the other.) Over the next few months we will be studying the art of fine tuning builds and sharpening our basic uses of the tools we use to assemble a kit.

As the height of the holidays fast approach many are making arrangements to take leave. Projects are being readied for the new year. I am winding up the Gavia kit and trying to get shutters on my office windows in anticipation of the Blue Northern sweeping down from the Artic to carry St. Nicholas on his midnight ride. The inside of the hangar is festooned with garland and garters...What? To my wondering eyes appear? Sorry folks I forgot it is wash day for Ursula and her all girl ground crew. Great now she tells me she lost my 22oz hammer. bad girl!

Operations memo Re: incoming supplies.

Greetings all; I have been asked by a fellow who does a bit (grand master) of PE. The subject is the extended wing pockets that were added to some early Spad XIII wings in 1918. Later the wings were altered at the factory level. The wing pockets will be brass PE in various scales for various kits. The upside is the surface detail that this adds to a build. More later.

"...Advice Requested.."

Greetings all;

Received this in a PM today.

"Mr. JackFlash,

I'm a die-hard fan of all things OD and Panzer Gray...(and a couple of other colors). Right now, I am "burning" myself out with the afore mentioned. Long story short....I went to Eduards site to order some PE for some of my OD wheelie-things and came across their WWI planes. Now, I truly love a P-51 or B17G (and kinda like ME-109's), but....Bi-Planes are soooooo neat. I haven't built a wingie-thingie in over 35 years....hell, tain't built much since I joined the Army in '81 and retired here outside of Fort Carson in '01.

Anyhow, with the order for my PE, I added the Albatros D.III (profi - #8035) and Nieuport Nieu.11 (profi - #8070). In your opinion, can these be built OOB (with their "extra" stuff) and render a "view-worthy" model? My skills are pretty good and attention to detail is too. Never ran "riggin'" tho.... So, what think you Sir?

Your input will be greatly appreciated. If per chance they aren't "so hot," any recommendations to spruce 'em up a bit?

Thanks ahead of time!
Sincerely,
Mike High"

My response was to assure Mike that the Eduard kits were certainly able to be built into good looking kits and I pointed out some minor areas that slight deviations would strengthen the builds. Eduard box art in the past has included complete build sans rigging.

There is a general idea that with WWI you have to do rigging. While I have no problems with rigging an have decided for myself is it required for my builds. I would like to encourage all newer builders to get comfortable with basics before venturing into rigging. The very best method of learning about a kit is viewing good photo images of the originals. Replicas tend to be less reliable unless they are built exactingly.

No one here is expected to go beyond their own constraints in building (time and etc) to post any images of finished kits. If you want an evaluation then by all means ask. But have no fear. We all started somewhere. This forum is for everyone. Feel free to post without someone tearing apart your method. But...if you ask for an honest eval brace yourself. You just might get it. But, we are here to have fun and enjoy the hobby. Whether you are eight or eighty there is room at the mess table for anyone with table manners.

Early Aviation D.O. daily report

It is my duty to report; all is well.

Here at our hangar the snow falls heavily. An expected 12-24 inches will keep the hangar doors closed at the South end today. Several technical manuals are slated for personal review today. Early German Aviators and Sopwith Pup Aces both by Osprey.

Will continue adding decals and rigging to the Gavia Pfalz E.I. Holiday music floats gently through the office door. Ursula really has a lovely singing voice as she leads her all girl choral.

Several holiday flicks ...movies planned for today. The mess Sgt. has soup and sanwiches, coffee, hot chocolate and apple pie for lunch. I expect several Aeroscale staff officers to stop by today with holiday greetings. No flying today weather visibility apporaching 100ft.

Had to cancel the Cricket match between Ursula's "Aeroscale Angels" and the "Mayo Whirlettes." Rather a pillow fight has been scheduled for later just before lights out.

For the correctness of the report.
Col. S. T. (JackFlash) Lawson

Attachment1a.
New list of discounted items with new inclusions,
http://www.eduard.cz/info/discount/kits2.php
In addition Batman Ursula models the Aeroscale uniform for all girl ground crew sanctioned pillow fights.


For the correctness...etc, etc.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!

Daily report Aeroscale Hangar #1.

Heavy snow fall since 4pm. Having just recovered from the blizzard of several days back the field is in good shape. The holiday feastivities continue. Dinner tonight Baked ham, baked potatoes, green bean casarole, fresh baked bread, apple and sweet potato pie. Mull Wine heavy on the cinnamon light on the cloves and fresh hot coffee.

Holiday films continue til 3am. Snack bar fully stocked. After midnight chapel service approx 2 hours set aside for working on the Gavia Pfalz E.I. Over the next few days Nieuport repair shop diorama to be be continued. Here is an oldie from the snow bound Steppes of Russia.


An unarmed trainer (Sopwith Tripe N5486) on this night of peace.
For the correctness of the report.
JackFlash

January 1, 2007

Status End Report for: 2006 Aeroscale Early Aviation hangar

Conversion of the old supply room into an office... 90% complete. Wet bar arrived from supply. Wine cellar / bomb shelter ... 90% complete. Stores on have arrived.

Eduard Fokker D.VII Combo... 50% complete See Col. Camelhill - Baylies for update.

Eduard Camel F.1 Combo ... 50% complete See Col. Camelhill - Baylies for update.

Eduard Fokker D.VII Royal 100% complete.

Edaurd Sopwith Profipack and Blue Max kitcrash 2F.1...100% complete.

Eduard Nieuport 17 Limited Edition "Flyboys" ...100% complete.

Gavia Pfalz E.I ...100% complete.

Lozenge Camouflage instructional...90% complete.

Monthly CQ duties .. cycle beginning.

For the record: Col. Stephen T. Lawson (callsign JackFlash)

Greetings all;
Here is what you can look forward to on the Early Aviation title here at Aeroscale for year 2007. There may be some changes along the way incase a manufacturer asks us to review a kit.

Kit Reviews 1/48
DML Spad XIII super detailed.
Planet Models Rumpler C.IV.
Roden Bristol Fighter F2.b & Part of Poland detail sets.
Roden Sopwith 1 1/2 Nightfighter.
Roden SE 5a with Part of Poland detail sets.
Roden Fokker D.VII with Part of Poland detail sets.
Eduard Fokker Dr.I (?)

Kit Reviews 1/32
Roden SE 5a (?)

Aftermarket enhancements
#48327 - Spandau machine guns.
#48505 - WW1 spoked wheels.
Toms Modelworks (through Squadron mail order) Ply-pocket wing tips for the Spad XIII.

Also I will be asking several of our members to contribute especially with the newer 1/72 scale offerings. If anyone would be interested in contributing their comments to a review please contact the veneable Jean-Luc!

The Boody April 1917 Air Campaign thread has been moved to the Air Campaign title... Makes sense eh?

Several tutorials are planned that will have to do with honing the modeler's skills. Going as far as you want will be the key.

Greetings all;

Just a quick note for the sake of anyone looking in the future to find the portfolios I will contribute to. I'll use this to post the URL for you to find them. You can of course just click on my name at the top of each page to see my profile and conributions too.

Albatros Fighters

Fokker Dr.I

Nieuport Fighters

Zeppelin Staaken R.VI

Pfalz Fighters

Fokker D.VII

Sopwith on the Thames

January 21, 2007

Status Early Report for: 2007 Aeroscale Early Aviation hangar

Conversion of the old supply room into an office... 95% complete. Wet bar arrived from supply. Wine cellar / bomb shelter ... 100% complete. Stores on order have arrived.

Planet Models Rumpler C.IV 10% complete.

DML Derelict Spad XIII...40% complete.

Eduard Wire wheels demo" ...10% complete.

Eduard Spandaus demo ...10% complete.

Lozenge Camouflage instructional...95% complete.

French multi colour camouflage instructional...50% complete.

Monthly CQ duties .. completed.

Air Campaign "Bloody April 1917" beginning round.

For the record: Col. Stephen T. Lawson (callsign JackFlash)