Sorry that I did not responed sooner Nick , was waiting for more of your progress .
Nice jod done on the weapons there . Pe is the devils work , but it does pay off in the end .
Your doing great so far , keep it up !
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Eduard 1:48 Bristol F.2b Fighter
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 01:11 PM UTC
NickZour
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 08:34 PM UTC
Thank you for your comment Terri
I'm so glad for both of your answers!!
Cheers Nick
I'm so glad for both of your answers!!
Cheers Nick
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 09:32 PM UTC
Keep her coming Nick. And be careful when pointing machine guns at the camera!
NickZour
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 01:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Keep her coming Nick. And be careful when pointing machine guns at the camera!
Thank you
But what do you mean to be careful when pointing the machineguns in the camera??
Cheers Nick
jaypee
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 02:00 AM UTC
Just make sure you keep the safety on. 1/48 bullets still hurt.
My little joke way of saying that I like the look of the gun.
Not a great joke, I admit.
My little joke way of saying that I like the look of the gun.
Not a great joke, I admit.
NickZour
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Posted: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 04:30 AM UTC
Ok thanks
Cheers Nick
Cheers Nick
NickZour
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Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 07:56 AM UTC
Update..
I'm ill with 37.5 celsius fever, cough and malaise
But I still building this F^*$%#g Bristol
I started painting with a humbrol metalcote WRONG. The color was chipping and run away from the surface (not all) (Sorry for my english )
So I tried to Get all the color away from the surface with white spirit WRONG #2
the plastic get too soft and the bars left & right broke in two pieces
I glued it with Cyanoacrylicate and get to sleep.
(Sorry again for my english but I hpe that you understand what I wrote )
So this morning I painted it
And photos of the whole model
Cheers Nick
I'm ill with 37.5 celsius fever, cough and malaise
But I still building this F^*$%#g Bristol
I started painting with a humbrol metalcote WRONG. The color was chipping and run away from the surface (not all) (Sorry for my english )
So I tried to Get all the color away from the surface with white spirit WRONG #2
the plastic get too soft and the bars left & right broke in two pieces
I glued it with Cyanoacrylicate and get to sleep.
(Sorry again for my english but I hpe that you understand what I wrote )
So this morning I painted it
And photos of the whole model
Cheers Nick
NickZour
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 08:01 AM UTC
The front p.e. in the barrel had just corrected
Cheers Nick
Cheers Nick
CaptainA
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 09:09 AM UTC
You are making some good progress, Nick. This is one of the more difficult kits and I am glad to see you are doing so well on it.
NickZour
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Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 09:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You are making some good progress, Nick. This is one of the more difficult kits and I am glad to see you are doing so well on it.
Thank you very much
I'm so glad about your comments, but I'm so tired of this kit and afraid for the final result
Cheers Nick
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 10:19 AM UTC
Hi Nick
White spirit eats plastic... that's a painful lesson we've all had to learn at some stage or other! Whatever you do, DON'T try the same trick with cellulose thinners - if you thought white spirit was vicious, it's nothing compared to cellulose...
You can airbrush with cellulose-thinned paints onto styrene, but never brush it on or try to use it to remove paint from styrene.
All the best
Rowan
White spirit eats plastic... that's a painful lesson we've all had to learn at some stage or other! Whatever you do, DON'T try the same trick with cellulose thinners - if you thought white spirit was vicious, it's nothing compared to cellulose...
You can airbrush with cellulose-thinned paints onto styrene, but never brush it on or try to use it to remove paint from styrene.
All the best
Rowan
NickZour
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Posted: Friday, November 20, 2009 - 07:07 PM UTC
Quoted Text
White spirit eats plastic...
Is white spirit so hungry?
Just kidding
Thanks for the advice
Cheers Nick
NickZour
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2009 - 08:35 AM UTC
I made an airbrush mistake (nothing realy special but now I don't have the khaki color . So later the painting )
But I'll keep painting smaller details with the brush
Cheers Nick
But I'll keep painting smaller details with the brush
Cheers Nick
NickZour
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Posted: Monday, November 30, 2009 - 06:41 AM UTC
Update!!
I finished the propellor and bombs painting
The propellor was painted with 3 layers of oil paints and 5 of gloss varnish (varnish only in wooden surfaces cause of the transparent putty that they were using in the ww1 )
The propellor (withouht flash)
with flash
The bombs (a little bit dirty )
Cheers Nick
I finished the propellor and bombs painting
The propellor was painted with 3 layers of oil paints and 5 of gloss varnish (varnish only in wooden surfaces cause of the transparent putty that they were using in the ww1 )
The propellor (withouht flash)
with flash
The bombs (a little bit dirty )
Cheers Nick
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - 12:29 AM UTC
Nice work on the prop Nick !
NickZour
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Posted: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - 01:25 AM UTC
Thank you Terri
It's my first wooden prop.
Cheers Nick
It's my first wooden prop.
Cheers Nick
NickZour
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Posted: Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 09:27 AM UTC
click here for ebay plan sale.
Very nice plans, but THERE IS NO WAY to do ALL that rigging
Cheers Nick
Very nice plans, but THERE IS NO WAY to do ALL that rigging
Cheers Nick
CaptainA
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Posted: Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 12:05 PM UTC
Hard, but not impossible. I believe it is beyond my abilities in that scale. All that rigging is just the nature of the beast.
Prop looks good.
Prop looks good.
NickZour
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Posted: Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 06:33 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Prop looks good.
Thanks
Cheers Nick
NickZour
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Saturday, December 12, 2009 - 04:40 AM UTC
After buying my new Sparmax TC-501 compressor I'm going into to finish it
Painting the red scheme & masking it
Painting the light grey scheme in the engine cover
Cheers Nick
Painting the red scheme & masking it
Painting the light grey scheme in the engine cover
Cheers Nick
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 01:13 AM UTC
Nice little up-date Nick ! Your project is coming very nicely on a diffcult kit . Keep up the good work
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 03:11 AM UTC
Nice one Nick, I'd try and burnish that masking tape down a little more snugly.
before you shoot the PC10 colour, that'll stop it leaking underneath.
And trim the edges of it a little more square before you start too it's a little
work but the finish will reward you. Your new A/B is giving you a good coverage with
that red.
What's is the blue gel, by the way?
before you shoot the PC10 colour, that'll stop it leaking underneath.
And trim the edges of it a little more square before you start too it's a little
work but the finish will reward you. Your new A/B is giving you a good coverage with
that red.
What's is the blue gel, by the way?
NickZour
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 03:13 AM UTC
Thank you very much Terri
Cheers Nick
Cheers Nick
NickZour
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 03:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice one Nick, I'd try and burnish that masking tape down a little more snugly.
before you shoot the PC10 colour, that'll stop it leaking underneath.
And trim the edges of it a little more square before you start too it's a little
work but the finish will reward you. Your new A/B is giving you a good coverage with
that red.
What's is the blue gel, by the way?
Thanks J.P.
What do you excactly mean, I don't understand.I'm too young, I supose (I have no Lower deegree yet)
The blue jel is Gunse Neo Sol. Liquid mask.
Cheers Nick
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 08:35 AM UTC
Let me try and explain.
Burnishing is rubbing. The tape looks like it needs rubbed down, with a blunt toothpick
or something like that so that paint wont seep underneath the mask. Another trick
is be to give a shot of red over the tape and let it dry before you go for the PC10. (the green)
The tape also looks like it is cut not quite straight and at right angles at the end, there is a slight curve.
Looking at it again I'd mask the edges of the centre bit with tape rather than liquid mask to get a straighter edge.
All the best Nick.
Burnishing is rubbing. The tape looks like it needs rubbed down, with a blunt toothpick
or something like that so that paint wont seep underneath the mask. Another trick
is be to give a shot of red over the tape and let it dry before you go for the PC10. (the green)
The tape also looks like it is cut not quite straight and at right angles at the end, there is a slight curve.
Looking at it again I'd mask the edges of the centre bit with tape rather than liquid mask to get a straighter edge.
All the best Nick.