Excellent choice, Stefan! I considered that one myself.
Instead I will go for the Kopro 1/48 SU-17/22. That is going to to be one big motherf.....r. I have bought an extra Hi-Decal decal sheet and I am going for a Soviet machine. i also considered some of the after market items, but decided against it.
Work is already progressing more to follow soon......
The ME 1101 will be the second build for this campaign.
Air Campaigns
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Hosted by Frederick Boucher, Michael Satin
Swing-wing 2008 official thread
Posted: Sunday, September 14, 2008 - 11:55 PM UTC
Posted: Monday, September 15, 2008 - 10:28 PM UTC
Here is a small update. Strangely construction starts with the underwing stores. I am going to give my SU-17 a weapons store instead of just drop tanks. It will give it a more "ready for action" look
The parts did not fit together that well and it was impossible to get them ti line up properly. A lot of sanding is necessary to get them into a "round-ish" shape, although they will never be perfect.
More to follow...
The parts did not fit together that well and it was impossible to get them ti line up properly. A lot of sanding is necessary to get them into a "round-ish" shape, although they will never be perfect.
More to follow...
magnusf
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,953 posts
AeroScale: 1,902 posts
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,953 posts
AeroScale: 1,902 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 - 10:18 PM UTC
Stefan and Jesper: Those are both spectacular choices of aircraft! I have seen the Su-22 kit myself, it looks like lots of work! In 1/72, the Italeri offering (wherever it originates from) isn't bad even if it is far from Hasegawa quality! And I hope that Stefan's decaling skills are up to the task, big decals scare me even in 1/72 not to mention 1/48!
Here's the latest update, as usual I hope that I am up-to-date:
As a well behaved campaign leader I see it as my responsibility to fill in the blanks, my friend Sture had one of these for sale and it fitted this campaign perfectly:
I will go for the XF10 and a Tornado F.3, I doubt I will be able to cram in three kits into this campaign!
Magnus
Here's the latest update, as usual I hope that I am up-to-date:
As a well behaved campaign leader I see it as my responsibility to fill in the blanks, my friend Sture had one of these for sale and it fitted this campaign perfectly:
I will go for the XF10 and a Tornado F.3, I doubt I will be able to cram in three kits into this campaign!
Magnus
Posted: Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 01:06 AM UTC
Pigsty again with that Flogger.
Here's the forward fuselage assembled, with the cockpit installed. Again, the instructions failed utterly to help. I had to work out the hard way that much more of the kit parts had to be cut away than was set out, which took some time. At this point there’s no nose weight inside, which was a mistake. Luckily resin is quite heavy. The work round the radome junction is fairly obvious: I think both were roughly circular, but with different radii, so there were gaps and bumps at the same time, but it’s mostly OK now.
This is the nosegear well in situ. Note, again, filler, plus filler, plus filler. This is partly because the well has to be moved back slightly and partly because, this time, Eduard’s instructions weren’t abundantly clear.
That PE afterburner and exhaust. This time it’s not Eduard’s fault that it’s not quite round. The turbine centrebody is the nose off one of the kit’s R-23s. All they’re good for, really. How I’m to paint all this defeats me.
The intakes before (top) and after (bottom) – Eduard gives you the blow-in doors, which again take some fitting, and the splitter plate. There’s a lot of thinning to do here. The full horror of fitting the intakes comes later. I've dry-fitted them and it's not looking good ...
A miscellany: the kit exhaust, to show you how poor it is; the kit pylons; and four AIM-9Bs (from Hasegawa’s Weapons Set C) about to defect and become R-3s (AA-2 in old money). They’re close enough to be acceptable – more accurate than either of the kit’s missiles, anyway. At this point I’ve drilled out the missile exhausts and painted them black, but not scribed the panel lines on the pylons.
The pylons with R-3 rails. An easy job – square plastic rod, appropriately profiled, and don’t worry too much about panel details.
And here's the fuselage assembled, including the intakes and splitters, plus all the surface PE that won’t pop off at the sight of a paintbrush. Now you can see all the filler: all the way along the fin root (you have to thin the locating tab to get it in, then you’re left with this); all along the rear fuselage top-bottom joint; and all around the intakes, and it’s not finished there yet. The problem with the fuselage is that the top half is slightly narrower than the bottom. If I were doing this again (as if!), I might insert a spreader bar and hope it didn’t distort the exhaust opening. There are holes drilled in the fuselage pylon mounts to take plastic pins sunk into the pylons. This is because they’d be butt-jointed otherwise, and it’s so crowded down there that they’d be bound to fall off.
Talking of butt-joints … when Esci designed the kit they gave it separate noses for the MiG-23 and MiG-27 (good) and made them butt joints (less good). So, he thinks, let’s help it out with some plastic pegs. Drill one side, mount little lengths of plastic rod – all fine so far; measure up where the ends of the pegs go, drill the other side; and do they match? Do they buggery. So after some considerable routing out, they fit just poorly enough to leave some sanding to match up the fuselage contours on either side of the joint. But it is a strong joint. I know this because I managed to slam the nose down on the desk and nothing happened.
At this point I have now installed nose weight. I cut up fishing weights, as I normally do; and had to feed them in through the mounting slots for the intakes, which was a bit of a departure. Once there seem to be enough in, you flood the hole with super-glue. Then the model rattles for a few days as the loose ones run around and eventually make their way out through gaps you didn’t know existed. Caught them all, though.
Close-ups of the intakes for the full horror. Basically, they were the right shape, but the wrong scale – too narrow all the way round. The Eduard splitter plates are wonderful, though. That one of them is sitting on spacers is Esci’s fault, not Eduard’s.
Getting there ...
Here's the forward fuselage assembled, with the cockpit installed. Again, the instructions failed utterly to help. I had to work out the hard way that much more of the kit parts had to be cut away than was set out, which took some time. At this point there’s no nose weight inside, which was a mistake. Luckily resin is quite heavy. The work round the radome junction is fairly obvious: I think both were roughly circular, but with different radii, so there were gaps and bumps at the same time, but it’s mostly OK now.
This is the nosegear well in situ. Note, again, filler, plus filler, plus filler. This is partly because the well has to be moved back slightly and partly because, this time, Eduard’s instructions weren’t abundantly clear.
That PE afterburner and exhaust. This time it’s not Eduard’s fault that it’s not quite round. The turbine centrebody is the nose off one of the kit’s R-23s. All they’re good for, really. How I’m to paint all this defeats me.
The intakes before (top) and after (bottom) – Eduard gives you the blow-in doors, which again take some fitting, and the splitter plate. There’s a lot of thinning to do here. The full horror of fitting the intakes comes later. I've dry-fitted them and it's not looking good ...
A miscellany: the kit exhaust, to show you how poor it is; the kit pylons; and four AIM-9Bs (from Hasegawa’s Weapons Set C) about to defect and become R-3s (AA-2 in old money). They’re close enough to be acceptable – more accurate than either of the kit’s missiles, anyway. At this point I’ve drilled out the missile exhausts and painted them black, but not scribed the panel lines on the pylons.
The pylons with R-3 rails. An easy job – square plastic rod, appropriately profiled, and don’t worry too much about panel details.
And here's the fuselage assembled, including the intakes and splitters, plus all the surface PE that won’t pop off at the sight of a paintbrush. Now you can see all the filler: all the way along the fin root (you have to thin the locating tab to get it in, then you’re left with this); all along the rear fuselage top-bottom joint; and all around the intakes, and it’s not finished there yet. The problem with the fuselage is that the top half is slightly narrower than the bottom. If I were doing this again (as if!), I might insert a spreader bar and hope it didn’t distort the exhaust opening. There are holes drilled in the fuselage pylon mounts to take plastic pins sunk into the pylons. This is because they’d be butt-jointed otherwise, and it’s so crowded down there that they’d be bound to fall off.
Talking of butt-joints … when Esci designed the kit they gave it separate noses for the MiG-23 and MiG-27 (good) and made them butt joints (less good). So, he thinks, let’s help it out with some plastic pegs. Drill one side, mount little lengths of plastic rod – all fine so far; measure up where the ends of the pegs go, drill the other side; and do they match? Do they buggery. So after some considerable routing out, they fit just poorly enough to leave some sanding to match up the fuselage contours on either side of the joint. But it is a strong joint. I know this because I managed to slam the nose down on the desk and nothing happened.
At this point I have now installed nose weight. I cut up fishing weights, as I normally do; and had to feed them in through the mounting slots for the intakes, which was a bit of a departure. Once there seem to be enough in, you flood the hole with super-glue. Then the model rattles for a few days as the loose ones run around and eventually make their way out through gaps you didn’t know existed. Caught them all, though.
Close-ups of the intakes for the full horror. Basically, they were the right shape, but the wrong scale – too narrow all the way round. The Eduard splitter plates are wonderful, though. That one of them is sitting on spacers is Esci’s fault, not Eduard’s.
Getting there ...
Posted: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 - 02:37 AM UTC
Great progress, Sean. I really like that PE exhaust. I will try something similar on my next jet.
Progress is slow but getting there for my Su-17/22. The part fit together well so far, but I fear they will be very difficult to align properly.
More to follow....
Progress is slow but getting there for my Su-17/22. The part fit together well so far, but I fear they will be very difficult to align properly.
More to follow....
Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:20 PM UTC
Is it just me, or is it a bit quiet around here ...?
Anyway, bit more on that Flogger. Here we have the camouflage pattern complete. The antennae and radome won’t be painted until the basic colours are finished.
A close-up to show the contrast between the wings (painting complete) and the fuselage. The edges on the fuselage are much sharper, but see below. The colours are all lighter. I’m putting this down to their not having any Klear over them yet, but if it persists, there’s always weathering, then blaming the factory.
Stage one in feathering the edges: a narrow dry-brushed band around each patch of colour. Generally, dark over light works best.
And stage two. Stage one leaves the original edge visible because dry-brushing doesn’t give very dense coverage. So I disguise it by dabbing little flecks of colour irregularly along the edge. If you stick to the six-foot rule, it’s not too bad. I've used the same technique on the edge of the lower surface but forgotten to take photos, so more on that later.
The undercarriage legs as supplied. Actually not bad, if lacking finesse. The main problem is that the maingear sits at the wrong angle. Changing the length of the nosegear leg (it got shorter as the MiG-23 developed) doesn’t help; it’s the angle of the axle beam that’s wrong. And because of that, the rest of the leg is wrong – so Eduard’s set replaces much of it.
And the legs as adapted. The finesse of the Eduard parts is obvious, even with my cack-handed application.
These will now hide in the box while I mess around some more with the paint and the more robust parts of the airframe.
Anyway, bit more on that Flogger. Here we have the camouflage pattern complete. The antennae and radome won’t be painted until the basic colours are finished.
A close-up to show the contrast between the wings (painting complete) and the fuselage. The edges on the fuselage are much sharper, but see below. The colours are all lighter. I’m putting this down to their not having any Klear over them yet, but if it persists, there’s always weathering, then blaming the factory.
Stage one in feathering the edges: a narrow dry-brushed band around each patch of colour. Generally, dark over light works best.
And stage two. Stage one leaves the original edge visible because dry-brushing doesn’t give very dense coverage. So I disguise it by dabbing little flecks of colour irregularly along the edge. If you stick to the six-foot rule, it’s not too bad. I've used the same technique on the edge of the lower surface but forgotten to take photos, so more on that later.
The undercarriage legs as supplied. Actually not bad, if lacking finesse. The main problem is that the maingear sits at the wrong angle. Changing the length of the nosegear leg (it got shorter as the MiG-23 developed) doesn’t help; it’s the angle of the axle beam that’s wrong. And because of that, the rest of the leg is wrong – so Eduard’s set replaces much of it.
And the legs as adapted. The finesse of the Eduard parts is obvious, even with my cack-handed application.
These will now hide in the box while I mess around some more with the paint and the more robust parts of the airframe.
magnusf
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,953 posts
AeroScale: 1,902 posts
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,953 posts
AeroScale: 1,902 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 05:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Is it just me, or is it a bit quiet around here ...?
I do feel a bit guilty, thanks God we have you who at least do some serious building! Really, the campaign leader ought to have started something by now but I am bogged down in some other builds. Give me a few weeks! (Actually, I have glued a bang seat for a Tornado (that I am not going to use anyway) and I suppose that counts for something at least )
Magnus
Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 07:19 AM UTC
Well, I've been busy installing a new shower today and getting other DIY jobs around the house out of the way so I can get on with some modelling tomorrow. the tomcat is half way though pre-shading.
Posted: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - 03:10 AM UTC
I am looking forward to see more of that Tomcat, Allen.
My Su-17/22 is progressing well. I managed to get all the main parts lined up. The swing wings even work
Next is the landing gear. It looks awfull and I am sure it will be a fight to get it to be the same height in each side. More on that later.
My Su-17/22 is progressing well. I managed to get all the main parts lined up. The swing wings even work
Next is the landing gear. It looks awfull and I am sure it will be a fight to get it to be the same height in each side. More on that later.
Nito74
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
AeroScale: 635 posts
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
AeroScale: 635 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 - 11:33 PM UTC
I have an old Esci Tu-22, a Su-17 and a Su-24 too... too many choices...
I'll stick to the Su-24 Fencer first, so many builds to finish...
I'll stick to the Su-24 Fencer first, so many builds to finish...
Posted: Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 09:01 PM UTC
Morning all, Pigsty here again. Here are some general views of the Flogger's top and underside, with all the paintwork, decals and panel lines, plus of course the tailplanes (at last), but before the vulnerable bits like the undercarriage go on.
And a big hand here for the jig! This is the pile of Lego lurking behind the kit in the other pictures. That stuff is absolute magic for building jigs that suit anything. This one, cunningly, works with the kit either way up.
General views and close-ups with most of the PE and final plastic details attached. Some very fine detail remains to be added – air data probe, static wicks - which will be made from my trusty florist’s wire.
The nose area had some final fun bits waiting for me. I had to reprofile the end of the radome so that it tapered properly to a realistically narrow point. Then there was a fair bit of sanding work needed around the base of the windscreen. Pigsty’s top tip no.2: if you’re using the Neomega cockpit, there’s a lip around the forward end of the coaming that has to be filed down before the windscreen will fit. Then - as always - it will fit fine but will change its mind the moment you add glue. The radome is painted without a mask. Happily, the depth of paint in my tin of satin black was exactly right, so I simply dipped it in and hung around for a bit while it drained.
A general view showing stage one of the weathering: a light cream pastel shade in the centres of panels, for sun-fading.
The underside - no fading, of course, but some oiliness from darker pastels.
And a general view and a close-up showing stage two of the weathering – dark brown around the panel lines.
And a big hand here for the jig! This is the pile of Lego lurking behind the kit in the other pictures. That stuff is absolute magic for building jigs that suit anything. This one, cunningly, works with the kit either way up.
General views and close-ups with most of the PE and final plastic details attached. Some very fine detail remains to be added – air data probe, static wicks - which will be made from my trusty florist’s wire.
The nose area had some final fun bits waiting for me. I had to reprofile the end of the radome so that it tapered properly to a realistically narrow point. Then there was a fair bit of sanding work needed around the base of the windscreen. Pigsty’s top tip no.2: if you’re using the Neomega cockpit, there’s a lip around the forward end of the coaming that has to be filed down before the windscreen will fit. Then - as always - it will fit fine but will change its mind the moment you add glue. The radome is painted without a mask. Happily, the depth of paint in my tin of satin black was exactly right, so I simply dipped it in and hung around for a bit while it drained.
A general view showing stage one of the weathering: a light cream pastel shade in the centres of panels, for sun-fading.
The underside - no fading, of course, but some oiliness from darker pastels.
And a general view and a close-up showing stage two of the weathering – dark brown around the panel lines.
Posted: Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 10:20 PM UTC
Very good looking Flogger so far, Sean. A clever way of using Lego to construct a rig. Maybe I should get down my old box of lego from the addict.
Looking forward to see more.
Looking forward to see more.
Posted: Monday, October 06, 2008 - 08:44 AM UTC
The basic construction is now finished and my Su-17/22 is now ready for some paint. I am really looking forward to test my skills with this camouflage scheme.
More to follow...
More to follow...
magnusf
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,953 posts
AeroScale: 1,902 posts
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 1,953 posts
AeroScale: 1,902 posts
Posted: Monday, October 06, 2008 - 09:03 AM UTC
Sean: That MiG turned out excellently, inspiring work!
Jesper: You will have a field day with the airbrush on that one. Good luck!
Magnus
Jesper: You will have a field day with the airbrush on that one. Good luck!
Magnus
Nito74
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
AeroScale: 635 posts
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
AeroScale: 635 posts
Posted: Friday, October 10, 2008 - 01:49 AM UTC
I'll be doing a Dragon 1-72 Su-24 Fencer, if I have some time left i'll start the old Esci Tu-22...
gbyrnsie
Canada
Joined: July 12, 2006
KitMaker: 770 posts
AeroScale: 22 posts
Joined: July 12, 2006
KitMaker: 770 posts
AeroScale: 22 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 03:03 PM UTC
I will be contributing a Hasegawa Mig-27 to this campaign.
GB
GB
Posted: Thursday, October 16, 2008 - 05:50 AM UTC
Sean great looking Flogger.
Not a lot of progress on the Tu-22M but its had a coat of white on its under sides.
Ciao
Luciano
Not a lot of progress on the Tu-22M but its had a coat of white on its under sides.
Ciao
Luciano
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2008 - 09:12 PM UTC
I have now finished the initial camouflage scheme. All sprayed free hand. This is really shaping up now and I am very satisfied with the camouflage so far.
Work is progressing fast so more updates will come over the weekend.
Work is progressing fast so more updates will come over the weekend.
Posted: Friday, October 17, 2008 - 09:49 PM UTC
Liking that Fitter so far, Jesper - especially with you so busy on other stuff!
Yes, and it only took a few years for that light-comes-on-above-the-head moment to arrive... Since then I've put in a bigger bulb and bought a Lego base-plate. This is even better because it holds everything rigidly without needing to construct big complex shapes. Get one that's 48 studs on each side and it's big enough to hold an F-106 on the diagonal with nothing hanging over the edge - very handy.
Anyway, the Flogger is done. Here we have the finished article from various angles. What you can see that’s new is mainly the undercarriage and the armament, plus those fine wire bits I mentioned before. I fitted the centreline pylon and then found the tank wouldn’t fit, which may be because it’s the wrong shape, but I’m not completely sure. As it happens, though, four R-3s and no tank match that very common photo of a Libyan Flogger-E. What you can’t see is the awful mess I made of the weathering. For some reason my usual coat of hairspray over the pastels turned white and horrid, so I lifted it off with nail varnish remover and went over it again with matt varnish. Result: all the fading has vanished, one of the roundels has gone missing, and there are smudges of nail varnish remover all over the show instead (which I’m going to call oil streaking for as long as I can get away with it). Note also the great big fingerprint behind the mainwheel wells. Anyone want to try to make up an explanation for that?
The answer to “how will I paint the exhaust?”: I bodged it. Bit of Metalcote gunmetal inside and out (with steel for the rear fuselage) and stuff the brush in as far as it will go. This leaves the turbine blades behind the burner ring unpainted, so promise you won’t look. They were annealed so there’s a hint of heat damage.
You may spot that there are bits of cockpit sill showing under the canopy. The reason is that I decided to leave the canopy unattached, so it can be removed to inspect the cockpit and left on to keep the dust out.
A note of caution to anyone else contemplating this madness. The weight of the kit, plus the brass, plus the nose weight, plus the filler (you will use lots of filler), plus for all I know the paint, is almost too much for the undercarriage to bear. Frankly, she wallows like a sick cow when you put her down on a display table. I can think of no easy to reinforce such complex legs so from now on, my Flogger is going to rest her tail on a spare Lego brick. I have plenty, now that I've got that base-plate.
Now, about that F-106 ...
Quoted Text
A clever way of using Lego to construct a rig.
Yes, and it only took a few years for that light-comes-on-above-the-head moment to arrive... Since then I've put in a bigger bulb and bought a Lego base-plate. This is even better because it holds everything rigidly without needing to construct big complex shapes. Get one that's 48 studs on each side and it's big enough to hold an F-106 on the diagonal with nothing hanging over the edge - very handy.
Anyway, the Flogger is done. Here we have the finished article from various angles. What you can see that’s new is mainly the undercarriage and the armament, plus those fine wire bits I mentioned before. I fitted the centreline pylon and then found the tank wouldn’t fit, which may be because it’s the wrong shape, but I’m not completely sure. As it happens, though, four R-3s and no tank match that very common photo of a Libyan Flogger-E. What you can’t see is the awful mess I made of the weathering. For some reason my usual coat of hairspray over the pastels turned white and horrid, so I lifted it off with nail varnish remover and went over it again with matt varnish. Result: all the fading has vanished, one of the roundels has gone missing, and there are smudges of nail varnish remover all over the show instead (which I’m going to call oil streaking for as long as I can get away with it). Note also the great big fingerprint behind the mainwheel wells. Anyone want to try to make up an explanation for that?
The answer to “how will I paint the exhaust?”: I bodged it. Bit of Metalcote gunmetal inside and out (with steel for the rear fuselage) and stuff the brush in as far as it will go. This leaves the turbine blades behind the burner ring unpainted, so promise you won’t look. They were annealed so there’s a hint of heat damage.
You may spot that there are bits of cockpit sill showing under the canopy. The reason is that I decided to leave the canopy unattached, so it can be removed to inspect the cockpit and left on to keep the dust out.
A note of caution to anyone else contemplating this madness. The weight of the kit, plus the brass, plus the nose weight, plus the filler (you will use lots of filler), plus for all I know the paint, is almost too much for the undercarriage to bear. Frankly, she wallows like a sick cow when you put her down on a display table. I can think of no easy to reinforce such complex legs so from now on, my Flogger is going to rest her tail on a spare Lego brick. I have plenty, now that I've got that base-plate.
Now, about that F-106 ...
Posted: Saturday, October 18, 2008 - 09:46 PM UTC
Considering all the difficulties you had, you have made a great entry for the campaign. I looked hard to find the problems you point out, but they do not show in the photos. Not for my eyes anyway
My priorities between my builds shift often. Right now it is full speed on my Fitter. When I lose motivation on it I put it aside and then work on some panzers fx. Sd.Kfz. or Panther.
My SU-17 is progressing fast now. Motivation is high after the camouflage turned out good.
Painting the details, I had a few problems with paint seeping out under the masking tape, but it was quickly rectified.
I have added al the stores and painted all the details. A coat of varnish has been applied. Cannot wait to start adding the decals. Those shark teeths will really make it look mean and ready to deal out some punishment.
My priorities between my builds shift often. Right now it is full speed on my Fitter. When I lose motivation on it I put it aside and then work on some panzers fx. Sd.Kfz. or Panther.
My SU-17 is progressing fast now. Motivation is high after the camouflage turned out good.
Painting the details, I had a few problems with paint seeping out under the masking tape, but it was quickly rectified.
I have added al the stores and painted all the details. A coat of varnish has been applied. Cannot wait to start adding the decals. Those shark teeths will really make it look mean and ready to deal out some punishment.
Posted: Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 02:38 AM UTC
Not much done to the Tomcat the last couple of weekends due to model shows but the preshading is finally done.
Cheers
Allen
Cheers
Allen
Posted: Monday, October 20, 2008 - 03:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Considering all the difficulties you had, you have made a great entry for the campaign. I looked hard to find the problems you point out, but they do not show in the photos. Not for my eyes anyway
That's because, while the camera doesn't lie, exactly, it may not always be telling the whole truth ...
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Posted: Monday, October 20, 2008 - 04:14 AM UTC
Nice tip Sean about drybrushing to avoid the use of a airbrush. I'll have to try that out and not shy away from
schemes that have that sprayed look. Was it hard to master that approach. Modern jets not really my thing
but just show it is always worth reading these campaign threads.
schemes that have that sprayed look. Was it hard to master that approach. Modern jets not really my thing
but just show it is always worth reading these campaign threads.
Posted: Monday, October 20, 2008 - 09:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Was it hard to master that approach.
Luckily, not very. I do a fair bit of armour so I have a lot of experience of dry-brushing (I'm stuck in a lilttle time-warp, but hey, it works for me). Realising the finish would be too thin was the only sticking point, but adding the little flecks along the edges just seemed the obvious thing to do. I would say, though, that it works better with deeper colours. The tan over the underside colours was unavoidable and it gave the thinnest-looking result. In future I might try a slightly darker colour along edges like that, in the hope that it will still look about right because of the lightening effect of dry-brushing.
Posted: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 - 09:01 PM UTC
My Su-17 is now finished. I am quite satisfied with how it turned out. There is a little silvering on some of the decals, but I can live with that. The camouflage was painted free hand. This is a process I will use again - especially on aircraft this huge size.
Now I am regretting that I did not go the extra mile and used an AM engine, cockpit and underwing stores. Anyway, it looks impressive and it is a huge angry looking aircraft.
Second build for this campaign will be the ME 1101 if I have the time for it.
I am lining up the Kopro 1/48 SU-7 for the speed campaign. Here I will go for the full monty with tons of Eduard PE, resin seat, resin engine details and what else I can find to pimp it up.
Below a picture of the original and my finished model. Comments welcome....
Now I am regretting that I did not go the extra mile and used an AM engine, cockpit and underwing stores. Anyway, it looks impressive and it is a huge angry looking aircraft.
Second build for this campaign will be the ME 1101 if I have the time for it.
I am lining up the Kopro 1/48 SU-7 for the speed campaign. Here I will go for the full monty with tons of Eduard PE, resin seat, resin engine details and what else I can find to pimp it up.
Below a picture of the original and my finished model. Comments welcome....