The old raised lines are used as a guide with the green tape. FBS is made of a thermo-stabilized polymer film with a rubber based adhesive that offers excellent conform-ability to irregular surfaces and tight curves. FBS tape provides excellent adhesion to a variety of substrates, a sharp paint line, and removes cleanly, leaving no residue. I find dymo tape too ridged and doesn't conform enough around complex curves, plus FBS being designed for the automotive industry naturally is more common hence far less expensive. I also use Tamiya flexible tape which is thinner but is even more flexible. The others used for your project is Japanese MT (Kabuki) and PACTRA "Trim Tape" and good ol' fashioned stretchy black electrical.

The lines stay until everything is ready to sand. They look deep but it's because the of the dark green plastic under the lighter primer and that there is a raised line next to them. In other places I leave the nice raised details that would be very tough to remake and appear to me should be raised anyway.

For riveting I'll be following closely the wings, meaning the 0.75 mm next to the panel lines and a 0.65 mm double wheel in open areas. But before that can happen though a careful sanding with 1200, 800, 400 grits then all mistakes in the lines, current and previous, have to be filled with polystyrene filler (sprue goo). I use that type because it's easy to re-scribe and rivet. Once that hardens after a day or so I can go over the work again and make adjustments. Because of all the dust, oil and possible tape residue the lines and rivets have to be cleaned out in order to take a wash and have something for the oil weathering to cling to. MOST importantly is to absolutely preserve the mind numbing amount of interior detail.

As usual, HG's work is more then simply amazing, it's certainly the [work] of a truly talented Alien.

And happy New [Year] my friend.

Joel

Brian,

[HG] is having retractable landing gear that works?


Joel

The build has taken on a life of its own.

BOXED IN

I started the tail compartment. First thing to do is deal with the gaping maw that is the opening to the tail wheel.

I did not want to leave it as is, because that would allow one to look right up into where the tail joins above. It would be like looking into any other empty wheel well, only one that would go to the top of the fuselage.

I didn't want to try to replicate the actual tail wheel strut structure or the very complex internal structures around it. The kit tail wheel strut is not accurate where it joins the kit internal structures. But it would take literally weeks if not months of work to make it accurate. And the well where it receives the wheel would have been a nightmare too. At this point it just isn't worth my time given the relatively limited visibility. So I compromised by boxing in the aperture above the tail wheel opening. You can see that below.

Brian,
And you're going to tell me that HG isn't an Alien from a far off distant place Honestly, I've never, ever, seen such a detailed, scratch build work like this. And I've seen many National IPMS winners and Best of Shows. Nothing to my aging mind comes close.

Honestly, at this point, your model belongs in a museum with full details, pictures, etc. It's no longer just a super detailed model build in any stretch of the imagination.

Joel

Pretty amazing! What is this FBS tape and where do I find it? And how does he make his seam filling goo? Always looking for new ways to do things . Also, do you guys have the Centerline Diagram for the tail wheel? It is Drawing Number 15-7368.

Please pass this along to Karl or post in your blog.

I use Bandai plastic because it is extremely high quality, dries faster, hardens better yet is ductil enough to take a riveting wheel and scriber easily. It also sands smoother as opposed to one of the Czech or Polish, Russian or Ukraine kit makers. When a pot of tamiya extra thin is at 1/3 remaining begin to add pellets to cover the bottom and count out how many it took. These pellets should be length and height roughly the same (an average sprue tree is 3 mm so 3 by 3 mm). let this dissolve overnight. Mix thoroughly and add another layer and let it dissolve. Best way to test for a consistency that will have far less shrink, dry faster and eat into the existing plastic is when the tip of the cement brush drips VERY slowly or not at all. I use a dark color because it is easier to see when sanding.

Brian, I've said it before and will say it again, its an epic build. I was interested though, in a percentage if possible, how much is left of the original base B17 and how much is scratch built ? Keep up the amazing work and attention to detail.

I'll sculpt a negative mold to form my aluminum around and try to find fabric ot roll some clay to replicate it. What I need is a wider angle photo of the well.

Bet you didn't think this was going to be attempted. We certainly didn't discuss it.

I knew I didn't have the skill set to replicate the actual configuration and there is the major point that it is a load-bearing component. And with the fuselage closed, I figured re-visiting this would be an exercise in futility.

What would best for the model is [styrene] strips and not an even wider massive gaping hole which will make no sense what with the already overly wide clearance for the size of the tire and gear.

That is amazing. Too late now for the centerline drawing, thought it might help align things. But he did just fine on his own. That entire tail wheel assembly might be a good project for a 3D printer.

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That is amazing. Too late now for the centerline drawing, thought it might help align things. But he did just fine on his own. That entire tail wheel assembly might be a good project for a 3D printer.

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Wow. Just wow! Thank you so much for sharing this effort. Following every day.

Someone (or something) that has hidden exceptional characteristics and/or future potential, but currently lacks the final touches that would make them (or it) truly stand out from the crowd.

The phrase is metaphorical and relates to the fact that naturally occurring diamonds are quite ordinary at first glance, and that their true beauty as jewels is only realized through the cutting and polishing process.

After taking some measurements and pouring over the drawings I set out to do panel lines. However, with the different colors from plastics, filled lines and old primer it was best to prep for re-prime and have a clean surface.