Lars,
Thanks so much for stopping by and checking out my PV-1 build. I'm really glad that you like my efforts.
Joel

Nice one Joel

I'm glad the fix proved relatively painless and turned out so well.

All the best

Rowan

Rowan,

I'm really surprised that the fix was so straight forward and simple. Usually any fix I attempt turns into a major project.

Think I'll call it "THE MERLIN TOUCH"

Joel

Cheers Joel!

Sadly, all too often the "Merlin Touch" is an inability to stay focused and actually finish the builds I start!

All the best

Rowan

Than put in some magic on yourself and finish it.. Pleeassseeee

Rowan,
Lately, that seems the case. Why not just focus on one or two of those started builds, and get on with finishing them?
Joel

Lars,
Have no fear, work does continue on the PV-1. The repair and re-decaling put me back nearly a week. I just haven't posted any of the current work yet. I've been working on both resin engines with added details. I'm almost ready to try and figure out how to wire up the spark plugs from the scratch built ignition manifold. I've been documenting all the steps along the way. I've also been working on the resin props which are mini kits, and up to decaling. The gear and wheels are done, painted and weathered, and now just waiting for installation.

So an update will be posted as soon as finish both engines.

At the rate I'm progressing, I hope to be finished by mid December, as work gets crazy this time of year, even though I'm semi retired.

Joel

Hi Joel

I do try, believe me, but I am my own worst enemy - it's just so tempting to jeep on starting things!

Anyway, I will make an extra effort not to begin any fresh projects until I've finished some of my current ones.

All the best

Rowan

Well, I spent the last week or so working on both 2,000 HP Pratt & Whitney R-2800-31 air-cooled radial engines. While the kit engines are nicely molded, the crankcase leaves a lot to be desired in terms of detail. The push rod tubes aren't tubes, but just rounded ends of wedges of plastic, but do work as the only angle of view is head on, but they look just too narrow. The props are too thin in cord for the later production run with the updated P&W engines. So I decided to go with the Quickboost resin set.



Here's a comparison of the two engines. There are no molded resin tubes on the Quickboost set, but the valve rocker arm casings are molded flat on the bottom, and the crankcase has the offset holes needed for proper placement.



I fashioned the push rod covers from .035 Evergreen rod, and the ignition manifold from copper wire.



I then primed the engines with AK Black Acrylic primer to add depth to the engines, as well as hide the solid backing plate. I painted the cylinders with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum, as well as the wiring harness manifold. I also drilled out the cylinders for the spark plug wires, but after test fitting the engines into the cowling, you really wouldn't be able to see them, so for now, I decided not to try and duplicate the wiring harness. The last step was to paint the crankcases with Model Master fs36076 enamel Engine Gray. The color does look a little dark to me, but that could be from the Black primer. Next time I'll use a slightly lighter shade, or just prime with a AMMO acrylic gray primer.



Next up was the Quickboost resin props to replace the kit props.



Since each blade is a separate part Quickboost included a resin alignment tool, which really made it easy setting the correct and equal pitch for each blade. The blades and hubs were primed with the AK Black acrylic primer. then the hubs were air brushed with Alcad 11 White Aluminum, sealed with Testors Metalizer clear sealer, then a wash of Model Master enamel Black. The prop tips were painted with Tamiya XF-4 Flat Yellow. I decided to not over paint the blades with Flat Black as the primer looks perfect. So I sealed them with Alcad 11 Clear Gloss, the applied the kit decals. I still haven't sealed the decals nor applied a flat coat to the blades as yet.

Here's a dry fitting of the engine assemblies with the cowlings.



Joel

Looking good Joel!

The new engines look great Joel. The kit ones were, ahem, very much simplified.

Gary

With all work spent on the airframe I think the Quickboost engines are an excellent investment! Will you be finished before Santa :-) ?



Magnus

Brian,
Thanks for stopping by. Things are starting to shape up nicely. Looking forward to your next B-17F update.
Joel

Gary,
Glad you agreed with my decisions to upgrade the kit engines and props. Not much more worked needed to get either to this stage, but the results are just so much better.
Joel

Magnus my friend,

Really nice to see you on the boards. Hope all is well with you. Glad that you're in agreement with my added purchases for PV-1 modeling adventure. It's been quite interesting to say the least.

The build is actually taking way longer then I thought it would, I'm into my 4th month, and finally the end is in sight. I'm sure hoping to have it done and in my display case before Santa makes his annual appearance, but with work demanding more and more of my time (even though I'm semi retired), it will be close.

I'm certainly hoping that my next build, the Academy 1/48 scale B-25B will take less time as it's going to be almost pure box stock.

Joel

Since last week's update, I've managed to accomplish quite a lot. So much so, that I can actually see the finish line off in the distance for the 1st time.

Up next was the assembly of the small 6 bomb payload, which was then painted Lifecolor faded OD and then a wash of Model Master Raw Sienna. The bomb were then installed.



The main gear struts were assembled, then primed with Gray AMMO acrylic primer, then given a few light coats of Alcad 2 White Aluminum, The Oleos were hand painted with Testors Metallic Buffing Steel. The molded on brake lines which really look excellent were painted a dark gray to simulate rubber. Once dry, a heavy wash of Model Master enamel Flat Black for an oily effect, and then sealed with Testors Metallic clear sealer.

I replaced the kit tires with Ultracast Diamond pattern tires, which had a much more defined tire pattern, as well as a higher degree of wheel detail.



Finally, the under wing gas tanks were glued into position. the Identification lights were each painted the appropriate color, while the lenses were made using Microscale Krystal Klear.





The bomb bay doors are comprised of a pair of doors for each side. Since I wanted to have the doors in the open position, the installation sequence in the instructions was vague even with the two pictures included. They would have you glue the actuation rods into the bomb bay, the glue up the doors to them. After a few min of contemplation, I decided to make each bomb bay door a separate assembly, then glue them into position.

I glued both halves to the center folding mechanism, then when almost cured, I carefully glued each end together. Then glued in the actuating rods. The rest of the doors in each pair don't touch each other, so the whole assembly is more then a little finicky.







The top fuselage turret was supposed to be installed before you glue the fuselage halves together. I was 100% positive that I would have broken off both MG barrels more then once, and likely damaged the painted turret, so I left it off till now. This required a fair amount of filing and sanding to get it to now fit.



Next up will be the final detailing of the big twin radials, and their installation.

Joel

Great progress on your excellent build. The Quickboost engines look indeed very good.

Your Alclad over grey primer looks nice, together with the wash it gives a more flat appearance. Something to keep in mind.



Jelger

Hey Joel,
She looks very good. Love the bomb bay doors! Were they as fiddly as they look, or was everything molded in a way that made assembly not to much of a pain?

Love to see you're getting near the finish line with this bird.

Gary

Jelger,
Getting closer to the finish line for sure. The gear is about the best I've done yet in terms of color and look. Nothing beats the look of Alcad for NM that I've ever tried with model paints. The wash does indeed tone and blend to just the right proportions.

The engines are nearing completion, then installation. BTW, Quickboost has a mounting collar that makes installing and aligning them as precise as the kit parts. Well, it did during dry fitting.

Joel

Gary,

Thanks so much for those more then kind words.

As far as those bomb bay doors go, they were actually more fiddly then they looked. You need to glue them one at a time to the center opening/closing actuator, while keep them aligned. Then when the glue starts to set the corners are where the fuselage brackets are attached, so you have to get each side aligned and square, yet keep the other end also aligned. Took a few tries to get it right. Then glue in the brackets the next day. I found out the hard way that a slightly outward leaning bracket works to your advantage as it adds just a little more pressure to the glue joint when installing the doors. Once dry, they wiggle at the slightest touch.

Joel

Looking good Joel! Really great to watch your progress as I have two to build .... possibly more as we used them in both the European theater and the Pacific. Was doing some research (was thinking about joining the Guadal Canal campaign) and there were Kiwi's at Guadal canal half of a bomber reconnaissance squadron or so. We freed up the B17's and Dauntless's etc so they could perform their primary function. LOL we were told to only scout and to leave out attacking anything we found just report back as they couldn't afford to lose them. Nice to know we had a hand in helping at the canal.

Looking good... is this your final weathering?
gr TC

Lars,
Yes, except for some exhaust staining using Tamiya Smoke.
Joel

Joel,

Your PV-1 looks outstanding, I cant wait to see it finished! Your choice of scheme is excellent, worthy of the great effort youvebput into this build

Beautiful detail work Joel, this build has been a real joy to follow. Thanks for sharing so much information with every update.

Cheers, D