Steve,
Some very noteworthy progress. Not far from the paint booth, now.

Gaz

Hi Gaz

Yes, I can almost smell the thinners. Surely there can't be much to go wrong now...

No news is good news, or so they say. Well, that’s where I was with the build, until this little headline came along. The profile of the nose doesn't match the profile of the pitot tube.



I guess I should have known, but hope springs eternal. The question now is how to fix it? I could sand down the nose or try and build up the tube. Decisions, decisions. Sanding looks easier, but of course I’ll have to remove a fair bit of plastic to avoid a step. I really want to leave the pitot tube off until painting is done or the chances are I will break it. I guess a plan is to fix it in place with white glue, sand the nose cone to shape and then remove it. If anyone has a better idea, please let me know.

By the way, there are a few photo etched parts for the under carriage doors. Removing small photo etch from the fret always risks them pinging off into oblivion. To stop that happening I usually cut them free on a piece of masking tape. I just push on the fret, snip the parts and then pull off the fret. The pieces I need are left behind.





OK, now I’m off to do a motivational course before I get the sanders or filler out again. Yes, we can!

Steve,
Your masking tape technique for keeping PE from visiting the Carpet Monster is just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for the tip.

As for the nose cone issue, another glaring example of Italeri total lack of Quality control, and or just not giving a damn. Seems to me that close is good enough to save money in the minds of their bean counters. My brother, who lives on LSP for years, said that there are 3 new build threads on the Mirage IIIc, and all have the same complaints and issues that you have pointed out to us.

From your picture it doesn't even look like the tube is even centered in the cone. Hopefully it is. That's really a huge step to deal with. Maybe some strips of .010 sheet plastic, then putty. I'm sure it's going to be a real challenge to get right, but you've shown us more then enough skill set to handle it.

Joel

Hi Joel

I'm pleased the masking tape tip for cutting PE is helpful. It works with smaller plastic parts too as long as there's enough contact with the tape.

As for the kit, then yes, you're right on all counts. I'm going to try and make the best of it and get out the trusty Tamiya sanding sponges. I experimented with fabricating a new part but its going to take more effort than I'm willing to put in.

Watch this space and I'll post the results.

Happy modelling.

Steve

What just happened should have had me crying out in frustration. However, after all the trials of building this kit, cracking the front canopy in two seems like a minor hiccup. I was test fitting it when a little too much pressure on the brittle plastic resulted in snap!



It did cross my mind to put it all away and start a new project (again), but having come this far I’ve decided to try and make a repair. I’ve never done this before so I have two plans. Plan A - as you can see below - is to superglue the parts together and sand out the join. I’ve seen other modellers use this technique with surprisingly good results. If it doesn't work for me, then Plan B is to remove the front panel of glass completely, stick the frame together and then replace that panel with transparent plastic sheet. Wish me luck.



Up to this point things had been progressing. A few evenings of gently sanding brought the profile of the nose and pitot tube into line.



I’m off to listen to some relaxing music and practice my breathing.

Happy modelling guys

Steve,
The pitot tube to cone looks perfect. The windscreen is new territory for me. I've never attempted to repair one, just replace it.

One I got one from the Squadron, and one I had to bite the bullet and buy a new kit. That's one very, and I mean very expensive canopy. The only option I never gave any thought to was to make my own Vac-u-former, which was the way I should have gone before laying out all that money for a new kit.

Of course emailing the manufacturer completely skipped my mind.

Looking forward to seeing just how good the repair turns out.

Joel

Oh man... The hardships with this kit just won't stop.

To be honest, I think you'll be better off just replacing the winscreen right away. Seams like that are nigh impossible to hide on clear parts. Even if you get the surfaces themselves sanded and buffed to perfection, there's really nothing you can do about the seam line within the plastic.

Great job blending in the pitot tube/nose cone!

Steve,
That's exactly my point from before that I didn't mention. You can get the joint line smooth and completely sealed, but the crack itself will always be visible because the glue shows between the two parts.

Try to contact the importer or manufacturer, but that's a possibility as well. I did get a replacement part from GWH that way for the P-61.

Joel

Man, what a pain!

Hi guys

Thanks very much for all the advice and sympathy. Yes, maybe you are right and the path of least resistance is to order a new part, but darn it that means giving Italeri more money.

I've been trying to figure out where I saw the superglue repair done well. I think it was over on Large Scale Planes. If I find it I'll post a link...

Ah-ha. Found it...

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=58969&page=10

So watch this space to see if it works for me. Three impossible things in a day? Sure why not.

See you soon guys.

S

The great experiment began, as many new initiatives do, with failure. OK, OK you told me so. No amount of sanding will get rid of that join line. I’m a believer (cue The Monkees), and I didn't attempt to finish.



That left plan B, which is now the only plan as you’ll see in a minute. Plan B, in case you are coming in at this point is to reconstruct the canopy. Here’s how:

First of all I removed the cracked front window by scribing around the edge of the glass continuously until it was thin enough to pop out. At this point the only thing holding the two sides of the front canopy together were the thin top and bottom frames. Of course they gave up and decided that staying together was just more than they were paid for. Now I had two parts again, but that was OK because it gave me easy access to the inside of the frame which needed sanding.



I also took the opportunity to polish both of my self-created parts because I wanted to mask them as protection from the handling that comes next.





Now the two halves needed to be re-joined. I experimented (again) and found that trying to keep the two halves aligned was practically impossible. This led to a momentous decision. Cue rolling of drums and fanfare…

…I would glue the frame halves in place on the kit, and then rebuild the glass. The consequence of course is that those parts are now firmly in place. So, I’ve got to get the next stages right. No pressure then. On the upside I don't have to hold them any more and risk further damage, and I’ve been able to do what I was trying to do when calamity struck and jiggle the canopy part so it fits better into the fuselage. Oh, and just to add to the fun I completely removed the front lower frame. I did this using a technique called clumsiness. Yes, it broke as I held the parts to clean. Sigh.

All that cost an evening, and get me here:



In episode two of ‘Aaargh, Why am I Making a Simple job so Hard?’ we find out if reconstructive surgery really does lead to happier life. Oh, and I'm not sure why this came to mind, but it did:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGU_4-5RaxU

Steve,

Your patience with this kit in overcoming adversity is bordering upon biblical...truly incredible!

Gary

Steve,
You're doing a bang-up job. No point in stopping now!

Gaz

Hi Gary and Gaz

I've hedged my bets and sent prayers to the gods of all the major religions, so as well as you guys I'm hoping for some big time support.

I wonder if there was ever a Greek god of model making? Someone must have been keeping the arms and legs on all those statues, right?

Thanks again for all the encouragement. I need it.

Happy (and trouble free) modeling.

S

Steve,
Not so sure that there was a Greek God for any type of modeling, as quite a lot of the statues you see today are missing arms, hands, and other body parts.

Your build constantly amazing me. I know I've said this before, but I would have re-boxed the kit long ago, and sent it to the local landfill to be recycled. Yet you've stuck with it, and the results are a series of master modeling posts.

Plan B (which in the Drug Store business is a over the counter pill for shall we say not taking the proper precautions the night before), is breaking new ground at least for me. I've never seen anyone carve out a clear glass panel, and have the resulting framing looking as though it was molded that way.

I'm really looking forward to your next update of the glass panel installation. It's gotta be perfect fitting because you can't use filler of any media as it will show. Of course you understand that I'm not trying to put any additional pressure on you

Joel

Steve, To echo everyone else... I cant believe the troubles this kit has thrown in your way. Its a real testament to us "hobbyists" that we sometimes have to fix the mistakes of the "professional".
Each hurdle overcome gives us a new boost of confidence and another trick in the bag so good luck with the canopy, you are doing an incredible job so far.

Hi Joel and Paul

Thanks very much for the motivation. I do need it, and yes it has crossed my mind a few times to launch this kit on a one-way test flight.

Having got this far and had so much support from you guys and other modelers means I'm really loathed to give up.

Joel, yes maybe the gods deserted all those statues, or the sacrifices dried up when the Greeks got Romanized. Either way its a warning from history. I'll try not to let my sanity become a sacrifice to this project.

Thanks again guys. I'm away for a few days now, so next update will be next week.

Have a great day.

S

Episode 2. Rebuilding the canopy. Told in the style of Raymond Chandler, author of the Big Sleep and other great detective novels.

Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I was cutting the the Tamiya PLA plate, although only one of them was dead. The fit had to be closer than an exotic dancer eyeing her next John. I’d already checked the blade in my Swan Morton, and I knew it would cut it. The question was, could I? I’d been here before, messed around with the Italeri mob and paid the price. Would it be different this time? There was only one to find out.



They say the first cut is the unkindest, but a man’s got to start somewhere. I made it count; smooth and straight, the way I like my bourbon. It was close but not close enough. No need to worry. The 320 grade sanding stick I had in the pocket of my pants was there for a good reason. I could have hit it hard, but the PLA plate looked sharp, foxy and mean. So I eased up. Sand-test-sand. It seemed to like that, and with some coaxing it finally slid into place.

I counted it up on my fingers. I’d managed to get the new piece in, but keeping it there wasn't going to be a breeze. Behind the smell of bourbon another odour lurked - the nail polish twang of Tamiya Extra thin. It was tempting but could only end in disaster. Kristal Klear was the smart option. Sure it had less power but it wouldn't leave a trail of smoke across the PLA. I watered it down and let capillary action pull it into the gaps.

So, here’s the result. The glue is still drying out, but I’m not even trying. I reached for my drink and drank it slowly. Nothing to do now until the Krital Klear has done its job. I’ll just keep my nose clean and hope everything will be jake.

Steve,
Looking good. Enjoy your drink. You earned it today.
Joel

Brilliant, lol... Your next blog ought to be entirely written in a film noir style.

The replacement glass looks great so far. As Joel said it seems like you're breaking new ground with this. All the cool kids will be using your technique in time and wondering what the big deal was

Brave effort on replacing the front glass! I hope it is fixed solid.

Your drink is well deserved! Enjoy!



Jelger

Hi guys

Well, its not perfect but I hope it'll do the job. There are now many small imperfections around this kit after all the work needed. I've grown to accept compromises that I wouldn't have tolerated at the beginning.

Jelger, I must admit that I'm also worried the Kristal Klear won't be strong enough for the masking and polishing that comes next. This morning I added just a little Tamiya Extra Thin at the bottom where paint will simulate the canopy frame. I hope it will be enough to add some strength.

Joel, thanks as ever for sharing the journey. By the way you seem to be able to comment on every blog on this site. Wow, you are busy man but your effort is really appreciated.

Paul, OK maybe I will try Film Noir :-) Its not so far from Raymond Chandler. If I have any more problems though it might become all become a bit Fawlty Towers. I've had a few of these moments:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6ejc0tuGpo

Happy modelling guys.

S

Steve,
Great work! I even liked the narrative style. Curious though...what is PLA glue? People's Liberation Army...or something else entirely?

Best wishes,

Gaz

Hi Gaz

Thanks very much. You can tell my sanity is being tested :-)

The product I used to re-glaze the canopy was Tamiya PLA plate. Its basically transparent plastic sheet. I bought some once by mistake, but now I'm pleased I have it. It comes in different thickness and is really clear (at least before handling). It won't work well for complex curves but for simple flat transparent areas or even areas with a curve in one dimension, its as good as you can get I reckon.

I hope that helps.

Have a great day

S