Hi Dez

You can still join the campaign. Just join under the "Campaigns" folder on the Aeroscale page and start building.

I am still about to start building on my entry for this campaign. So we will be at least two late comers

And it is finally finished

Ta-da:









I'll upl;oad pics to campaign gallery tomorrow

Thanks for keeping things going in my absence all. Mike, if you want to build a Hustler go for it. Sam, your Squito' looks good. Nicely done. Nice work so far on your 17 Matt. I just got back at it as I have been out of town attending the IPMS nationals in AZ. Yeah its a dry heat alright.. Trying to get my basement reassembled as it flooded and man-land took a minor hit while I was away. Seems to happen every time I leave for more than a day. New carpet padding etc. Had to tear out my entire workbench to repair the damages. Hoping to get back to some glue fumes soon. Again, thanks for continuing to post your work folks. Looks great. Thanks, "Q"

Very nice Mossie, Samantha.

Matt, I feel your pain with the basement. I also had water in the basement yesterday, although luckily it was very little. We had the heaviest rains since 1931.

I am still gathering momentum on a few of my other builds. As soon as I have fixed those I will start my Ju-86 for this campaign.

I have now started my Ju-86 for this campaign. Not much progress yet, but the interior is getting done. Very basic, but with a crew in place it will look ok - at a distance.

More to follow.

That Junkers looks cool as. I've never even seen one before. Is it an old kit?

Not too old, they even had two versions available.

I think it is from the 1980'ties, but not sure. I think there were more than 2 versions available. Both the D1 version I am building, Passenger version, and the export version with new engines.

The one I am building is an old boxing. The kit has been reboxed at least once since then.

Some progress on the Betty. As I said the interior is pretty bare.



So I added some detail this is the first bit of scratch building I've tried. All of the extra detail was made with scrap pieces of sprue, and other bits of scattered material. I was going to try a wash in the cockpit, but I won't bother for this build. I'll keep it clean.



And here is the more or less finished result, quite pleased with it actually.

Count me in this campaign!

4 remaining months are enough (?) to rescue my Revell 1/48 Ju 88 from the «forgotten» pile, use tons of add on, including my debut with a Montex stencil set.
Yes I know the 88 is a "what? another?" kit, but it has that infinite camouflage/weapons & weathering profile that makes it a sure bet...

I am in. i am building my first model aircraft and it just so happens to be a bomber.

- WiggyII

Okay, so I.ve been following this campaign for a while and I managed to get ahold of a Monogram B-26 from Great Model Webstore along with some Eduard photo-etch and I thought, why not?

So, I'd like to enlist doing

with the markings for "Mild and Bitter"

First Marauder to reach 50 mission mark and first Marauder to make 100 mission mark

Later

So doing some work on the Marauder. I couldnt find any interior pictures of Mild and Bitter, and seeing I am out of Zinc C. Yellow, we are going to assume that at some time her bomb bay was stripped to bare aluminium



And with a wee bit of weathering



And I also installed the windows in the fuselage.
More to come later gang

Wow! Great to see so many new entries in this campaign.

Nice choices, Pedro and Bruce. Looking forward to follow those builds. Bombers in 1/48 are always nice and impressive.
Pedro, have you decided your load and camouflage scheme?

Very nice scratchbuilding in the cockpit, Jeremy. Especially if it is one of your first tries at this.

I have made a little more progress on my JU-86. The main construction is finished, just some details and a crew missing.

I have decided to build it wheels up with open bombbay. The fit in these areas really show the age of the kit and some serious sanding was needed to get an acceptable fit.
The size of the bomb bay is extremely small. I am perplexed to the small size of the bomb load, even considering that the bombs were stored standing upright. I can understand why these machines were phased out quickly.

The two shiny dots in the fuselage is the magnets for the flying stand. More details of the flying stand can be found HERE where I have written a small review.

More to follow soon.

Here goes a photo of all goodies plus the beast's box.
You can see the Montex sheet (I'll be tackling the snow one from KG3), the Falcon replacement cockpit already masked by Montex and Eduard (none itself is 100% accurate, but combined we have what it takes!), the Verlinden resin set for the interiors and some guns from Aires. Also a new and much needed spinner from Quickboost (the kit one's are under-scaled). Last, also from Quickboost, some new exhausts

well, I have the cockpit finished now. All the Eduard photo etch was used. Some weathering done. Just dry brushing with Tamyia flat brown and flat aluminium and zinc chromate green to take the starkness off



Now, on to the fuselage!

Later

Pedro, I would love to see the image, but it just shows like a red X on my screen.

Nice start, Bruce. Looking forward to see more.

Hello Everyone,
I have been lurking watching al the great builds for this campain for sometime now, there have been some great builds already completed, and from the looks of things many more to come.

I have been working on my build for this campain for a few weeks on and off, and have finally gotten to the point that I can actually show my progress.

My entry will be the 1/48 B24D Liberator

This is a monster of an A/C, I will have a hard time finding a place to display it.
I have gotten to the point where I can close up the fuslage halves. Here are some pics of my progress so far.

Bombadiers Station

Cockpit

IP

Waist Gunners Station

Wing Assemblies - the nice part of these is like Revells B-17, the wings do not need to be glued in place, but are designed for removal. We will see if this can be realized in the end.

Afew more.

In order to have it sit on its nose, like the real thing, I began adding weights into the rear for the nose section, behind the nose gear bay. This is where I ended up.




I will keep you all posted, as I progress.

Ted

Yep! Can't understand what went wrong, but again it was my first attemp with images posted.

Any hints on the (img) process are wellcome

Thanks

pedro,
to post a picture here you need to first get the picture online. I use Flickr myself, but there are a lot of others such as photobucket. Once you have the picture there you need to left click on the picture, go to properties then highlight the URL and then left click again and click copy (the URL starts with http:) Now you can go to AeroScale write your reply and when you are ready go to the black bar underneath the text box and click on img. What you will see is img http://put.url.here/image.file /img , next highlight everything between the img boxes, left click and choose paste. Check to make sure that the 2 img boxes are okay and then hit post and you should see your photo in your reply.
And you should get this;

Hi everyone,
Sorry it's been awhile since I updated my work on the Marauder. Work has gotten in the way I'm afraid I guess I'm just going to have to look harder for that winning Lotto ticket

Anyway, one of the major reasons Monogram models fell out of favor with most modelers is the raised panel lines. When Hasegawa and other manufacturers perfected in laid panel lines Monogram fell out of grace and a lot of really nice kits disappeared. It was a shame .

The problem with raised panel lines, really, is if you have to sand the model to get rid of seam lines et al. you loose the detail. This is were this trick comes into play.

Usually, you can use tube glue or plastic weld to really soften the plastic, then press the 2 halves together and you get melted glue oozing out of the seam

When the glue drys (about 1 hour for tube glue or 30 seconds for the weld ) you just scrape the bead off and you should be all set

Now, my problem was this

I wound up with one heck of a seam on this thing! Why? Just being purley nieve At my age you'd think I'd know better

Anyway, My LHS was out of Tenex 7 Plastic Weld. The guy there tells me that the plastic weld with the orange label is exactly the same thing. Twice the size and cheaper to boot! So I beleived him, he works there after all.



Oops

The probelm is obvious. Putty and sand and loose all the detail. Sand the entire model, putty and sand and rescribe Not likely

The solution to the problem was something that a friend of mine showed me a few years ago at a meeting of IMPS Nightfighters Chapter of Vero Beach.

What is needed is Tamyia putty, nail polish remover (acetone based) and cotton swabs.



Apply a thin layer of putty over the seam, thick enough to fill the trough, but as thin as possible other wise. I usually work about 2 or 3 inches at a time. After applying the putty wait about 10 to 15 minutes, until it sets up but before it cures.



Sorry about the focus, but it's what you get with a point and shoot camera

Then it's just a matter of wtting the end of the swab with the nail polish remover and wiping off the excess putty Simple yes?





Stupid camera Anyway, after rubbing the seam with the pemover for about a minute all the excess putty is gone leaving a smooth seam.

Just continue on, top and bottom. When you are done make sure you wash the model in warm water to get rid of the acetate since paint will not adhere to it

And that's it
Later

Nice tricks, Bruce. Thanks for sharing. I will have to try that on my next build.

Here is a progress picture just to show that (slow) progress is being made on my JU-86.
I had a problem with the swastika markings on the tail. Very difficult to paint a white circle. However, looking through my spare decal box I found perefect decals left over from my Matchbox Do 18 build. Lucky me!

That is a great hint Bruce. Only thing I would add is that you should test the acetone based remover on a scrap piece of the kits plastic as I have found some plastic is very soft and wiping it with acetone leads to the plastic melting leaving the surface a big mess.

I finished my build so early I might build another one just for something to do in between the LVG and Queen Mary..

@Jesper, looking good so far.

@Warren, actually, I've only used this trick on Monogram models and I've never had a problem Except where I accidently got some remover on a clear part and it ate into the Future I had covered the window in

Oh well, I didn't want that window closed anyway
Later