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Will be working on the window fix next, but I need to order some clear acetate sheet.

Joel

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Hey Joel, is this the stuff I pointed out in the after fuselage?

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Will be working on the window fix next, but I need to order some clear acetate sheet.

Joel

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Hey Joel, is this the stuff I pointed out in the after fuselage?

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Brian,
Yes.

I'm looking at trying some of the clean acetate from packaging. I've also thought that once the fuselage halves are closed up, there is next to no light in the areas of those windows, so basically all you'll see is glossy black, especially at a distance of a foot or so as a display model. so what if I painted white sheet plastic black, then after the model is completed I use Microscale Krystal Kleer to make the glass. The effect should be the same as looking through the other windows with clear plastic inserts. Besides, the clear acetate will still need a coating of Krystal Kleer to bring it up to the level of the fuselage skin.

Joel

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Will be working on the window fix next, but I need to order some clear acetate sheet.

Joel

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Hey Joel, is this the stuff I pointed out in the after fuselage?

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Brian,
Yes.

I'm looking at trying some of the clean acetate from packaging. I've also thought that once the fuselage halves are closed up, there is next to no light in the areas of those windows, so basically all you'll see is glossy black, especially at a distance of a foot or so as a display model. so what if I painted white sheet plastic black, then after the model is completed I use Microscale Krystal Kleer to make the glass. The effect should be the same as looking through the other windows with clear plastic inserts. Besides, the clear acetate will still need a coating of Krystal Kleer to bring it up to the level of the fuselage skin.

Joel

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OK. An alternative approach is to buy some rigid clear plastic sheets/styrene/plexiglas and to cut pieces to fill the enlarged window openings you make. You could also spray the INTERIOR of these parts with Tamiya "smoke" so the the outer surface looks "clear" but one can't see inside due to "darkness." I did something like that with the Hobbycraft P-35A large side window on the stbd side and liked the result.

Nice one Joel!

It's great to see you off to a fine start. I built the original when it came out and loved it (although I opened up the cowlings as Brian mentions).

All the best

Rowan

Hi Joel, very nice work on the seatbelts; they look the biz. I will be following along, as it is always instructive to watch a master at work!

Ernest

And I'm here as well !
Regarding clear plastic I've found it a lot easier to work with clear styrene stock than using second hand packaging blisters. The plastic from the packaging is usually difficult both to glue, sand and polish. But you might already be past that stage by now !



Magnus

I might be a bit late to the party here but a good source of clear styrene flat stock is CD covers. You can buy the very cheaply or steal them from the wife's CD collection because her taste in music is . . . Hang on, I better not finish this on the grounds that I may incriminate myself.

Cheers, D

Pretty darn impressive if yuz asks me. This is hard stuff to do, always with the risk of messing up a major part!

Lovely work Joel. This is what modelling is about! Research your subject matter and don't just make do with a "near enough" attitude with such obvious differences when you have the skills to modify and make it correct.

Thanks for sharing so much detail.

Cheers, D

Looking very good so far Joel. I agree with Damian about researching and correcting faults/issues to the best of your ability.

Great progress so far Joel, I certainly will be tagging along with this build.
tim

Great work on the inside of the fuselage Joel. Some really nice detail there.
tim