IMG_2017 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2018 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2019 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2022 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
Air Campaigns
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Hosted by Frederick Boucher, Michael Satin
OFFICIAL: PTO Campaign
c4willy
#305
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,673 posts
AeroScale: 1,517 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2018 - 11:56 PM UTC
I'm done with the Seafire guys just need to take some pics for the gallery and we'll be finished.
IMG_2017 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2018 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2019 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2022 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
IMG_2017 by Chris WIlson, on FlickrIMG_2018 by Chris WIlson, on FlickrIMG_2019 by Chris WIlson, on FlickrIMG_2022 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr
BoiseBlade
#523
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
AeroScale: 250 posts
Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 08:40 AM UTC
Chris,
Really nice Spit!!!
Like the weather and it looks great.
I wasn't going to join this build but my son came back from a business trip to Nagoya Japan and picked up some new decals for me. (Must have raised him right somewhere along the road
)
I will be building the Zero out of this set.
I might do the Kate as well...But focus will be on the Zero.
Really nice Spit!!!
Like the weather and it looks great.
I wasn't going to join this build but my son came back from a business trip to Nagoya Japan and picked up some new decals for me. (Must have raised him right somewhere along the road
) I will be building the Zero out of this set.
I might do the Kate as well...But focus will be on the Zero.
md72
#439
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 4,950 posts
AeroScale: 3,192 posts
Posted: Friday, February 02, 2018 - 11:47 AM UTC
Well Kudos to Airfix, they charged me L3 for the part and then spent L2.95 on Royal Mail getting it to me.
Not sure there's 5 pence worth of part there, but I'm back on line!
Not sure there's 5 pence worth of part there, but I'm back on line!
BoiseBlade
#523
Joined: February 28, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
AeroScale: 250 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 08:07 AM UTC
Here is the interiors for the Zero and the Kate.
I added scratch seatbelts and some other bits.
I added scratch seatbelts and some other bits.
69mudbone
Joined: April 26, 2016
KitMaker: 362 posts
AeroScale: 42 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 - 11:21 PM UTC
Hi Guys, calling this one complete.1/16 Navy pilot WWII on flight deck. Comments welcomed.
MichaelSatin
Campaigns Administrator
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 3,909 posts
AeroScale: 2,904 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 12:36 AM UTC
Well done, Ken! Nice to see a figure for a change.
Michael
Michael
bomber14
Joined: February 02, 2015
KitMaker: 330 posts
AeroScale: 286 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 01:20 AM UTC
matt please share your new technique on the exhaust when you get a chance. they look outstanding. great weathering and chipping on the corsair too.
joe
joe
Pave-Hawk
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 900 posts
AeroScale: 200 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 08, 2018 - 12:46 PM UTC
My N1K1Ja is moving along. It's gloss coats all round coming up for my current in progress builds
PasiAhopelto
Joined: October 01, 2016
KitMaker: 514 posts
AeroScale: 239 posts
Posted: Friday, February 09, 2018 - 12:39 PM UTC
Have to start putting some serious effort to this. Not many weeks remaining.
It looks small in the picture, but painting will take time simply because of the large surface area.
It looks small in the picture, but painting will take time simply because of the large surface area.
RhinoSpit
Joined: September 22, 2016
KitMaker: 224 posts
AeroScale: 191 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 02:42 AM UTC
Some advance on my british hellcat:
md72
#439
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 4,950 posts
AeroScale: 3,192 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 02:46 AM UTC
Franck, is that the Eduard Hellcat? Looks kinda familiar, especially the two piece rear window.
RhinoSpit
Joined: September 22, 2016
KitMaker: 224 posts
AeroScale: 191 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 03:50 AM UTC
yes it is
Pave-Hawk
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 900 posts
AeroScale: 200 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 11, 2018 - 09:30 AM UTC
While waiting for paint to dry I got a bit or work done on my N1K floatplane version.
The kit came with a metal weight for the float to help avoid being a taildragger
The kit came with a metal weight for the float to help avoid being a taildragger
RadekZ
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 125 posts
AeroScale: 85 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 10:50 PM UTC
Hi,
Progress update on Dutch Buffalo.
As model was ready to paint I covered it with OneShot primer from Ammo thinned a little bit with MENG (AK ) thinner.
Then continued with reference colours - silver (used Vallejo Metal Color for that). Upper camo was made with Tamiya's XF-49 Khaki & XF-62 Olive Drab with few drops of XF-55 Deck Tan to lighten the colour.
Then I prepared and painted Dutch insignia (with help of Montex Maxi Masks & Tamiya masking tape). All looked good:
Unfortunately the disaster stroke when I started removing mask... The paints peeled off to the bare plastic.
I don't know what happened... the plastic was double cleaned (washed with soapy water and later cleaned with isoprophyl alcohol just before painting), all layers were left to dry really hard (e.g. primer was left >5 days before I had time to spray colours)... Yet still full patches of primer with paint went off like the didn't stick at all to surface:
Well... I have to now remove paint around peeled off areas and paint again...
No more masking though this time. I will use kit's decals instead. Pity, but unfortunately some of the masks were damaged in removal process (I had to trim them, so they broke easily even with little force applied).
Cheers,
Radek
Progress update on Dutch Buffalo.
As model was ready to paint I covered it with OneShot primer from Ammo thinned a little bit with MENG (AK ) thinner.
Then continued with reference colours - silver (used Vallejo Metal Color for that). Upper camo was made with Tamiya's XF-49 Khaki & XF-62 Olive Drab with few drops of XF-55 Deck Tan to lighten the colour.
Then I prepared and painted Dutch insignia (with help of Montex Maxi Masks & Tamiya masking tape). All looked good:
Unfortunately the disaster stroke when I started removing mask... The paints peeled off to the bare plastic.
I don't know what happened... the plastic was double cleaned (washed with soapy water and later cleaned with isoprophyl alcohol just before painting), all layers were left to dry really hard (e.g. primer was left >5 days before I had time to spray colours)... Yet still full patches of primer with paint went off like the didn't stick at all to surface:
Well... I have to now remove paint around peeled off areas and paint again...
No more masking though this time. I will use kit's decals instead. Pity, but unfortunately some of the masks were damaged in removal process (I had to trim them, so they broke easily even with little force applied).
Cheers,
Radek
goodn8
Joined: October 12, 2008
KitMaker: 709 posts
AeroScale: 651 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 11:50 PM UTC
Radek, very sorry for that paint disaster!
Hope you can fix it as this is going to be a nice looking bird.
Maybe (at least what I can see) the colors (and combination) seems to be too weak and incompatible to resist the adhesives of the tape that soften them anyhow.
Anyone else got a similar problems with those color mixes?
good luck, Thomas
Hope you can fix it as this is going to be a nice looking bird.
Maybe (at least what I can see) the colors (and combination) seems to be too weak and incompatible to resist the adhesives of the tape that soften them anyhow.
Anyone else got a similar problems with those color mixes?
good luck, Thomas
RadekZ
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 125 posts
AeroScale: 85 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 01:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Radek, very sorry for that paint disaster!
Hope you can fix it as this is going to be a nice looking bird.
Maybe (at least what I can see) the colors (and combination) seems to be too weak and incompatible to resist the adhesives of the tape that soften them anyhow.
Anyone else got a similar problems with those color mixes?
good luck, Thomas
Hi Thomas,
thanks
. For me there's definitely problem with primer. Paint seems to stick good to primer, but primer just goes off with everything above. Like on this pic below.
Left marking - I just "scratched" the orange paint on Dutch roundel and it went off to bare plastic... just if it was not fixed to surface.
The strangest one is however in area marked to the right. There is a visible tint or faint discolouration on plastic surface just like if camo colour passed through primer or something. Very disturbing.
The mid marking shows clearly how the primer with paint ripped off surface during removal of masks...
I don't know which way I'll follow to fix that.
From one side as I'm not going to use any masking anymore (decals only) I can try to remove only the paint in "affected" area by sanding it down with fine sandpaper and then repaint the area but without OneShot primer, just the Tamiya's grey paint as primer.
Drawback here is that it will probably leave differences in paint shades as I won't be able to recreate mixing proportions of paints I mentioned in earlier post.
The other option which I don't want to follow would be to completely remove the paint and do all painting from scratch.
Drawback is that it takes time and may cause some other damage to plastic or joints and also it may cause I'll loose my mojo again
Nevertheless it seems I once again overcomplicated the build. If I decided to go for decals stright away I would be already publishing my final pics
Willard79
Joined: June 01, 2014
KitMaker: 189 posts
AeroScale: 179 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 02:22 AM UTC
Hi Radek,
I got some one shot primer (black) a while ago and wasn't happy with it originally, didn't seem to sand well and so thick it needed to be thinned. That was then, since I've read a bit more, and if you can, shoot it without thinning, a .4 nozzle helps, and leave it for half a day or so and sands like tamiya or gunze primer. I've got a test model going where I've primed with 'one shot' and top coated with tamiya thinned with MLT and it's been great, but since your post I've covered it in masking tape to see if I can replicate your woes. I'll let you know how it goes.
Long story short, I wonder if thinning the primer weakened it? How heavy were the subsequent coats?
Certainly a frustrating result for you, all the best for the fix up, hope it goes well.
regards
I got some one shot primer (black) a while ago and wasn't happy with it originally, didn't seem to sand well and so thick it needed to be thinned. That was then, since I've read a bit more, and if you can, shoot it without thinning, a .4 nozzle helps, and leave it for half a day or so and sands like tamiya or gunze primer. I've got a test model going where I've primed with 'one shot' and top coated with tamiya thinned with MLT and it's been great, but since your post I've covered it in masking tape to see if I can replicate your woes. I'll let you know how it goes.
Long story short, I wonder if thinning the primer weakened it? How heavy were the subsequent coats?
Certainly a frustrating result for you, all the best for the fix up, hope it goes well.
regards
RadekZ
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 125 posts
AeroScale: 85 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 02:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Radek,
I wonder if thinning the primer weakened it? How heavy were the subsequent coats?
regards
Thanks Spud, I'm curious about your results.
As for coating of primer - I went for 3 coats. I applied light ones, full coverage, with 0.2 nozzle AB. Although I have some problems with keeping my compressor at level pressure I kept it ~15-20PSi.
As said earlier I let the primer dry for several days (business duties didn't give me too much opportunity to continue with painting), so it had plenty time to dry.
I have tried OneShot several times and it seemed to be working well, however that's the first time I've tried "hard" masking (previously only with blue tack which seems to have no impact on it).
From other side I also had an incident where I primed Airfix new Hurricane kit directly from bottle. Paint started to peel off even after touching with hand.
I need to learn a little bit more how to use this one...
md72
#439
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 4,950 posts
AeroScale: 3,192 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 08:54 AM UTC
This is getting to be the hardest build ever. It's not Airfix's fault. But now I managed to lose my second undercarriage part. I guess I can still build it wheels up, if I can find a stand. SO disappointing cause I really wanted to show the wingfold... 
c4willy
#305
Joined: February 01, 2006
KitMaker: 1,673 posts
AeroScale: 1,517 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 10:50 AM UTC
Hell bells Radek that just sucks! Had a similar result with Tamiya paints with my Seafire. I use universal thinners, which is a solvent based thinner and actually keys into the plastic, as the solvent will act like thin glue if applied straight to the plastic surface. And universal thinner will thin both acrylic, enamel and cellulose paints (lacquers). I get it from out local motor parts shop for a fraction of the price of Tamiya yellow cap thinner, $28 NZD will get me a 4 litre tin of it. Which has lasted me a little over 18 months so far.
Oh no MArk! I feel your pain! I hate when parts just up and disappear. Usually preceded by the thought I could lose this if I'm not careful followed by a ping then a tink somewhere across the garage. Concrete floor but parts just disappear on it.
Oh no MArk! I feel your pain! I hate when parts just up and disappear. Usually preceded by the thought I could lose this if I'm not careful followed by a ping then a tink somewhere across the garage. Concrete floor but parts just disappear on it.
Willard79
Joined: June 01, 2014
KitMaker: 189 posts
AeroScale: 179 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 11:41 AM UTC
Hi Radek, well I couldn’t get the tape to lift paint of my sample, and at one point I ripped the tape and left some on the model, so I wasn’t being gentle. However, I went back to my original sample (over a year old) and I could scratch it off with my thumb nail, not so with my most recent example.
Clearly there is a variable at play which I can’t work out, but I was watching a Paul Budzik video on primers and he talked about the distance primer gets applied and whether it hits the surface wet or semi dry. None of this fixes your paint job of course, but it does make me more wary of the one shot primer.
Regards.
Clearly there is a variable at play which I can’t work out, but I was watching a Paul Budzik video on primers and he talked about the distance primer gets applied and whether it hits the surface wet or semi dry. None of this fixes your paint job of course, but it does make me more wary of the one shot primer.
Regards.
RadekZ
Joined: March 12, 2013
KitMaker: 125 posts
AeroScale: 85 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 01:05 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hell bells Radek that just sucks! Had a similar result with Tamiya paints with my Seafire. I use universal thinners, which is a solvent based thinner and actually keys into the plastic, as the solvent will act like thin glue if applied straight to the plastic surface. And universal thinner will thin both acrylic, enamel and cellulose paints (lacquers). I get it from out local motor parts shop for a fraction of the price of Tamiya yellow cap thinner, $28 NZD will get me a 4 litre tin of it. Which has lasted me a little over 18 months so far.
Thanks for information, Chris.
From my own experience I had similar issues only if I used primers like this OneShot or AK/MiG/Vallejo. Thinner wasn't a big issue so far (or at least I cannot proove it could be
), maybe except the price . I wonder what kind of thinner you use, I have thought about universal thinners you can usually buy in hardware stores or motor shops, but either they had a very limited usage (like "laquer only or sth") or in other case they needed high temperatures (motor paint thinners with 20-25C required to harden properly). Not that I wanted to really experiment with these ones but just as alternatives to expensive branded products.
Quoted Text
Hi Radek, well I couldn’t get the tape to lift paint of my sample, and at one point I ripped the tape and left some on the model, so I wasn’t being gentle. However, I went back to my original sample (over a year old) and I could scratch it off with my thumb nail, not so with my most recent example.
Clearly there is a variable at play which I can’t work out, but I was watching a Paul Budzik video on primers and he talked about the distance primer gets applied and whether it hits the surface wet or semi dry. None of this fixes your paint job of course, but it does make me more wary of the one shot primer.
Thanks Spud. Interesting information about "scratchy" paint - looks like adhesive characteristics of it sort of "wears off" in time.
I watched Paul's videos (I wish I had easy access to all his "dental" tools
) about priming and painting and I think this might be an issue in my case as well as I spray with 0.2mm nozzle, which means I can't use too dense paints and have to thin them well....Damn if Mr Surfacer wasn't that smelly I would stick to that and not experiment with others... I kinda suck in experiments
Yeti01012001
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 360 posts
AeroScale: 2 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 09:54 PM UTC
This is entry for the PTO campaign, I have been looking on the wrong website campaign for the thread. The campaign says any aircraft or vehicle used in this era.
As you see the kit is a REVELL 1/35 and is basic to put together
first was the black and white undercoat
The next step was dark sand high lighted buff, the flat brown high light with yellow and Russian green high light also with yellow
Then I placed a light overcast of buff and pin wash the recesses and high lights on the raise parts on the model
The base was a piece of wood, then foam card to make the shape The sand was a mixture of plaster of paris and normal sand mixed together The palm trees were made from wire and false plastic leaves cut into palm leaf shapes The idea I got from youtube The Japanese figures are from masterbox and Tamiya
The foliage is made from plastic fishing tank vegetation and other plastic leaf foliage and painted various greens and the US figures are from Dragon
Hope you like
As you see the kit is a REVELL 1/35 and is basic to put together
first was the black and white undercoat
The next step was dark sand high lighted buff, the flat brown high light with yellow and Russian green high light also with yellow
Then I placed a light overcast of buff and pin wash the recesses and high lights on the raise parts on the model
The base was a piece of wood, then foam card to make the shape The sand was a mixture of plaster of paris and normal sand mixed together The palm trees were made from wire and false plastic leaves cut into palm leaf shapes The idea I got from youtube The Japanese figures are from masterbox and Tamiya
The foliage is made from plastic fishing tank vegetation and other plastic leaf foliage and painted various greens and the US figures are from Dragon
Hope you like
Scrodes
Joined: July 22, 2012
KitMaker: 771 posts
AeroScale: 763 posts
Posted: Monday, February 19, 2018 - 04:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
matt please share your new technique on the exhaust when you get a chance. they look outstanding. great weathering and chipping on the corsair too.
joe
Thanks Joel!
The exhausts were painted with Alclad burnt exhaust, then a mottled coat of a rust coloured paint - Vallejo in this case. Then Mig rust and yellow ochre pigment with black on the tips.
The Corsair is finished, pending photographs.
Willard79
Joined: June 01, 2014
KitMaker: 189 posts
AeroScale: 179 posts
Posted: Monday, February 19, 2018 - 05:05 AM UTC
Glad I wasn't the only one wondering about Matts exhaust technique. Cheers for the share, they were some good lookin' pipes.
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