World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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Catalina......
Bigskip
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 03:39 PM UTC
Jan

If you are planning on using acrylics - i can reccomend either Tamiya Acrylics, but make sure you thin with their own thinner - they airbrush fine - not that good to brush paint - but the lightning i made (see my gallery) is all brush painted!! Hannats own brand of acrylics (xtracrylic or something like that) are very good - no thinning required for big areas, thin with distilled water for details.

You are right about the inspiration found on the big A - i spend time doing armour as well and have been helped out a lot from the great guys over there.



Not sure if you are aware of this site here

Lots of lovely cockpit photos

Andy
Lucky13
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 04:11 PM UTC
Andy....

I was doing armour as well back in the day. Have a few Dragon, Tamiya, Italeri among other kits back in Sweden. I even have an old Jo-Han Chrysler Turbine Car....
I haven't seen that website, nice cockpit pictures. Thanks for sharing.
As I said before, there's plenty of excellent work and fantastic helpful people on these forums...
Look forward to my first posting here of my "first" model, which with some help should be sometime before next ice age.....

:-) :-)
Bigskip
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 05:28 PM UTC
Hi guys

As resident Catalina experts, and considering my tail heavy problem with the lightning, can you suggest how much weight i need to put in the nose of my cat?

Rob, as the risk of looking stoopid - once you've sprayed over the Maskol how do you know where it is to peel it off - or does paint not sit on it?

Andy
Lucky13
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 06:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi guys

As resident Catalina experts, and considering my tail heavy problem with the lightning, can you suggest how much weight i need to put in the nose of my cat?

Andy



Andy.

I don't know how much you'll need, but I'm gonna try to cram as much as possible in the nose, under seats, anywhere infront of the maingear etc. when I get started. Thinking of using those wee lead bullets from shotgun ammo....maybe you guys have a better idea.
Bigskip
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 07:35 PM UTC
Jan

I'm thinking of using Lead shot - but i have no idea where to by - other htan using shot from angling shops - and that is way expensive - any ideas?

Andy
Lucky13
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 08:01 PM UTC
I'll snoop around mate....
How about tin?
29Foxtrot
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 08:16 PM UTC
Andy,

All modellers ask questions, young and old please don't feel it's stupid. Modellers always have questions in relation to what they see or read, of what others have done to put a finish to their models.

With the Maskol it is a rubberish type solution when paint is applied the Maskol shows up as a slightly higher ridge in the paintwork, {one of the pix I posted earlier shows the Maskol over the Fuselage area, before I applied the cam scheme}, it can be removed either by rubbing a finger over the model surface, or you can use masking tape or the back of a scalpal blade.

In refs to weight:-

I use the lead pellets from shot gun cartridages, {I bourght a 5Lb container 10 years ago [from a gun shop] and that would see me out in about 25 years time}, I asume your building the Academy 72 Scale PBY 5a Catalina [the Aphibious version with a tricycle undercarriage].

This what I would do if I was building this version:- using a piece of styrene sheet cut to fit inside the fuselage half level with the forward edge of the undercarriage side frame, as a support for a false floor to the inside rear of the cockpit bulkhead, as a place to hide the lead shot.
I'd make it as 2 seperate units one for each side slightly inward of the centre fuselage seams, which when covered over {with the false floor} the centreline of each housing would support the floor plate covering.

To do this: DRY FIT the fuselage and main wing {minus the clear parts}, using either masking tape, rubber bands or cloths pegs, or even a conbination of all, put the tailplanes in the side blisters, place a rod threw the Flight Engineers windows {the rectangular window of the wing support} and support the model on something. Rest the wing into position and using a medicine container poor the lead shot into the model untill it drops below the line of it's level stance, {resting on the nose gear}.

Once the lead shot is placed in the model, I would then remove the wings and tailplanes, tip the lead shot into a container, then build the false floor and supports for both fuselage halves, add the lead shot and using Aliphatic Resin, {this is a resin based water solubale white glue used for model railroad layouts,which dries clear and can be painted over if needed, this would hold the lead in place for the life of the model}, [candle wax will eventually seperate from the model and the lead shot], glue one half of the false floor plate to the fuselage.


I hope this is helpfull. I'll have a search threw my pix and see what I can find of models I have used lead weights for as a guide for the above explanation.

The 'Guinea Pig' I am building does not have lead weight in it as the Beaching Gear will be attached.



Lucky13
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 08:23 PM UTC
Thanks Rob!
I was gonna ask you what you use as nose weight..... :-) :-)
Bigskip
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 08:28 PM UTC
Rob

Wow

Thanks don't seem enough for that advice - however (and there's always a however, or a but isn't there ) i have already installed all the windows in the fuselage!! - time to look stupid and say D'oh.

I've put the windows in with pva - so i may be able to poke them out.

Still have no idea on where to buy bulk lead shot - google is not doing the business at the moment - will have more time at the weekend. If i can't get the windows out i'll just squeeze as much as possible into the nose section.

Note to Self - don't buy tricycle undercarriaged planes any more.

Andy
29Foxtrot
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 08:38 PM UTC
Both,

Your Welcome.

Andy,

Don't remove the windows from the fuselage if you have to use the nose area of the model, remember the front fuselage bulkhead is open, use sinkers from an Angling Suppler if needed.
I sent a PM too you with a few ideas on counter weights.

Jan,

Your intending to build the 48 scale Catalina, can I ask if it's the Anphib version ?

Always glad to help.
Removed by original poster on 11/10/06 - 22:55:04 (GMT).
29Foxtrot
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 09:29 PM UTC
Both,

Lead shot counter weight filled nose cone, of a 48 scale B58 Hustler.



Yet to be secured with Aliphatic Resin.
Bigskip
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 09:38 PM UTC
Rob

Would normal white glue/PVA do to stick the shot in?

Andy
Lucky13
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 09:55 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Jan,

Your intending to build the 48 scale Catalina, can I ask if it's the Anphib version ?

Always glad to help.



I intend to build them both Rob, since I've got both the flying boat and the amphibian version of the Cat.....
Bigskip
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 10:19 PM UTC
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Having trouble finding a 1:48th Scale thats not gonna cost an arm and a leg to get shipped to me.

Enjoy building them when you can Jan.

Have a great weekend - but i'll be online tomorrow anyway.



Andy
Lucky13
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Posted: Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 10:44 PM UTC
Not to worry Andy. I'll keep my eyes open for 1/48 Cats on your behalf. As soon as I find one, I'll let you know mate.....

And right back at you....
Bigskip
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 02:08 PM UTC
I've just lost one from Germany - it got to £50.00 and thats a bit tough for my budget at the moment, picked up a 1:48 Monogram Typhoon for £10 inc postage though - didn't think that was too bad.

Andy
29Foxtrot
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 07:19 PM UTC
Andy,

Yes PVA would work for the lead shot in your model without any problem.

The 'Guinea Pig' has transformed a little, the flat coat is Xtra Color FLAT VARNISH.





On the subject of 'Twins' here's one we have all forgotten:-






It's a 72 scale Frog kit from the last Century.
Lucky13
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 07:40 PM UTC
Rob.

Isn't that one of those Handley Page Whitley's? Awesome work on the Cat and the Whitley!
This one I've always had a soft spot for. For some odd reason.... :-) :-)

29Foxtrot
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 08:11 PM UTC
Andy,

The Monogram Typhoon is a good basic kit, builds into a nice model subject and was state of the art 30 odd years ago, if I may add this pointer, when the kit arrives check the decals {I bourght 1 of these second hand not so long ago and the decals had been eaten by silver fish}, their are 3 boxings of this kit.

1. Is Light Grey plastic. with 198 Sqn TP-F markings
2. Is Olive Green plastic. with MN -? blue checker tail band
3. Monogram Classic in Olive Green plastic and the 198 Sqn markings.

A resin seat is all the Monogram kit needs to bring it up.

Jan,

Yes it's a Whitley, it is a mate's model, who asks for help in improoving his skills, in both building and airbrushing, so for a day here and there he comes over home and I watch him build his model or give advice on what and how, a majority of times I end up building the model and he watches me, but their is great injoyment in assisting in someones elses models.

This model was cleaned up and painted backwards - In it's 'Night' cammo scheme, - I mean totally opposite on all instructions on airbrushing.

First off, the model is in 5 sub assemblies, the Black was painted, the fuselage and engine cowlings were masked in Maskol, ready for the Dark Earth, then the Dark Green. These 2 shades were applied almost straight away and applied free hand.

The rule of thumb is - Lightest colour first {Dark Earth}, followed by the Medum shade {Dark Green}, followed by the darker colour {Black}.

With exception of Humbrol #21 Gloss Black, the Dark Earth/Dark Green are Xtra Colour.

To Both,

Thanks for the kind words on the builds.
29Foxtrot
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 08:35 PM UTC
Jan,

Starange that you put up the Hampden, that the next kit my mate has asked me too help with.

Maybe one day both the Whitley and the Hampden will appear in 48 scale for us to ponder over.

With building both the PBY 5 Flying Boat and the PBY 5a Anphibian, if your intending to build them as a dio, adding the counter weights would be tricky {if the engines are opened up}, addapting the points I made earlier about the counter weights maybe of help to you, as when I built my 'Green Cat' the weights are in the engine narcelles and forward of the main undercarriage gear.

I have a PBY 5 in 48 scale that I intend to build in the new year {sometime} in the Intermediate Blue over Black, as one of two the RAAF had in this scheme.

These 2 Catalina kits may imerge again as re-issues sometime in the future
Lucky13
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 08:41 PM UTC
Fellas.....

Found these, which I'm gonna use as nose weights. The qusetions which one to buy..... :-)

The bottom of these two....at 5.99 quid.


Or this set......at 9.99 quid.


Decisions, decisions.....
29Foxtrot
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 09:01 PM UTC
Jan,

Go for container of assorted lead, the second pic at the cheaper price, from what I see that is a good mixed selection for use in models #8 looks similar to what I use on my models as weights.
You could always melt the whole lot down to form a thin flat sheet, which you could cut into strips and CA glue to the fuselage halves.

Just an idea.
Bigskip
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 09:24 PM UTC
I had a dig about in my garage and found my old fishing tackle box - haven't fished for 25 ish years - and lo and behold - loads of lead weights - love the idea about melting it down to form thin sheets. Think the blow torch is going to come in handy after all.

Thanks for the heads up on the typhoon. Am bidding on a p-61 black widow and a b25-h mitchell.

Jan - got to agree with rob re the assorted lead shot. - get the middle one. My local angling shop charges £2.5 each for the red tubs.

Are either of these worth the money - i think i'll get them for 10 - 12 quid each.

Andy
Lucky13
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Posted: Friday, November 10, 2006 - 09:33 PM UTC
Fellas...

Thanks for the idea of melting the lead down to thin flat sheets and for the suggestion of buying the second box, I'll take your advice. But, a question is how do you do melt the lead down the best way?
If it's the Monogram P-61 in 1/48, I'd say it's a fairly good kit, it has 20 odd years on it's neck I think. It has raised panel lines and all that. I have one myself back in Sweden. What make is the Mitchell?
Good luck with your bidding Andy!

Remember this Catalina fellas?
PBY-5A Catalina
by Jorge Roberto Wolf
Monogram Pro-Modeller/scratch 1/48

PBY-5A Catalina
by Jorge Roberto Wolf
Monogram Pro-Modeller/scratch 1/48
Part 2 - Colour

I'm gonna email him and ask how he did those engine cowlings....