Air Campaigns
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Hosted by Frederick Boucher, Michael Satin
FW 190 Campaign. It will really be cool!
rv1963
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 10:54 AM UTC
Thanks Hermon it really has been about 20 years since i finished an aircraft build i started one other last year and never finished it, i hope i finish this one.
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 11:36 AM UTC
Thanks Carl , still have two weeks of work left then I go back home for a few days and when I get back here I'll be leaving on the 11 of mar . Not sure how the cat will react to the move . Few days in a truck won't go to well with him ! He's never been in a car before so this should prove to be a interesting trip no dought .
I do hope with in a month I'll be back to the modeling once more so I still have time for this one .
I do hope with in a month I'll be back to the modeling once more so I still have time for this one .
LongKnife
Jönköping, Sweden
Joined: April 25, 2006
KitMaker: 831 posts
AeroScale: 688 posts
Joined: April 25, 2006
KitMaker: 831 posts
AeroScale: 688 posts
Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 08:29 PM UTC
Carl, the RAF-wurger is build by a friend of mine, and I kind of tricked him into building it together with mine. Partly because they are the same plane, and partly to fool him into Aeroscale/Armorama. He's a bit reluctant when it comes to computer communication...
I'll work on it though Tony.
And Hermon, you're still not alone. Look at Toms three T-bolts. I just hope they end up as three, and not as a single six-fingered one from "The deliverance".
I'll work on it though Tony.
And Hermon, you're still not alone. Look at Toms three T-bolts. I just hope they end up as three, and not as a single six-fingered one from "The deliverance".
cinzano
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 13, 2009
KitMaker: 419 posts
AeroScale: 378 posts
Joined: January 13, 2009
KitMaker: 419 posts
AeroScale: 378 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 05:30 PM UTC
Progress! Got started priming and pre-shading last night. Tried airbrushing the Model Master primer instead of the usual Tamiya or Testors rattle can primer. Let it cure overnight but it being acrylic I still find it a bit delicate. I may go back to enamel primers in the future.
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 09:36 PM UTC
Nice progress, Frederick. It looks like you got the tones of the camouflage right.
I have made some more progress on my A3. I am not 100% satisfied with the tones of the camouflage, but the pattern turned out just like I wanted it.
All the painting details are finished, so now decals are next followed by a light weathering. JG 2 birds seem to be pretty well maintained at the time they had the A3 and A4 versions, so I will go light on the weathering.
I have made some more progress on my A3. I am not 100% satisfied with the tones of the camouflage, but the pattern turned out just like I wanted it.
All the painting details are finished, so now decals are next followed by a light weathering. JG 2 birds seem to be pretty well maintained at the time they had the A3 and A4 versions, so I will go light on the weathering.
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 09:55 PM UTC
Hi Jesper
You really should rework the green (darker) and especially the light blue underside which is much too blue (looks like RLM 65 late) .. maybe with some light postshading or filtering in white/ light grey.
I commented on Hermons A-3 that the hue was o.k. but a bit too light, but in his build the ratio is o.k (RLM 75 Grauviolett is lighter than RLM 74 Green) on yours it is vice versa.
just my 2 ct .. if you are happy you are happy
all the best
Steffen
You really should rework the green (darker) and especially the light blue underside which is much too blue (looks like RLM 65 late) .. maybe with some light postshading or filtering in white/ light grey.
I commented on Hermons A-3 that the hue was o.k. but a bit too light, but in his build the ratio is o.k (RLM 75 Grauviolett is lighter than RLM 74 Green) on yours it is vice versa.
just my 2 ct .. if you are happy you are happy
all the best
Steffen
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
AeroScale: 1,564 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
AeroScale: 1,564 posts
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2009 - 08:14 AM UTC
At first it seemed that the Aeroluc vac-form canopy was too wide, but turned out a reasonably good fit after all.
But then, the inevitable disaster* (or is it just the first of many...?) struck as a made the major error of assuming that the PE instrument panel coaming would fit in a different kit just like that.
Guess what? It didn't.
Any ideas?
Scratch-building such a part would probably be tricky at least, because of the angled nature of the coaming.
Well, of course there's a PE meant for just this kit, but getting that just for a few parts isn't the most thrilling of ideas.
* At least for me, there seems to be at least one thing per project that doesn't go as planned, ranging from slight easily corrected mistakes to more major setbacks.
But then, the inevitable disaster* (or is it just the first of many...?) struck as a made the major error of assuming that the PE instrument panel coaming would fit in a different kit just like that.
Guess what? It didn't.
Any ideas?
Scratch-building such a part would probably be tricky at least, because of the angled nature of the coaming.
Well, of course there's a PE meant for just this kit, but getting that just for a few parts isn't the most thrilling of ideas.
* At least for me, there seems to be at least one thing per project that doesn't go as planned, ranging from slight easily corrected mistakes to more major setbacks.
VonCuda
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
AeroScale: 1,080 posts
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
AeroScale: 1,080 posts
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2009 - 01:29 PM UTC
Here is my finished entry. Hasegawa Fw190A-3.
Hermon
Hermon
cinzano
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 13, 2009
KitMaker: 419 posts
AeroScale: 378 posts
Joined: January 13, 2009
KitMaker: 419 posts
AeroScale: 378 posts
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2009 - 02:18 PM UTC
Very nice Hermon. Very nice indeed!
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2009 - 03:31 PM UTC
Most excellent build . It's awesome !
Posted: Friday, February 20, 2009 - 08:08 PM UTC
Very nice model Hermon!!! ... I have something similar on my desk
@Jesper .. now so close together I see your problem clearer: You have swaped the coulours and wanted to achieve the original contrast ... your RLM 74 is much too light while the RLM 75 is too dark.
cheers
Steffen
@Jesper .. now so close together I see your problem clearer: You have swaped the coulours and wanted to achieve the original contrast ... your RLM 74 is much too light while the RLM 75 is too dark.
cheers
Steffen
Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 12:10 AM UTC
Hi all
So here are two of my entries in the beginning stage (well, I hope I make it this time .. )
The first is Eduards Fw 190 A-5 WE (Bully Lang)
The second is Hasegawas Fw 190 A-4 (Egon Mayer) with altitude intakes
As you can see Hasegawa provided the wrong intakes .... hope I get that darn things re-shaped
all the best
Steffen
So here are two of my entries in the beginning stage (well, I hope I make it this time .. )
The first is Eduards Fw 190 A-5 WE (Bully Lang)
The second is Hasegawas Fw 190 A-4 (Egon Mayer) with altitude intakes
As you can see Hasegawa provided the wrong intakes .... hope I get that darn things re-shaped
all the best
Steffen
cinzano
Indiana, United States
Joined: January 13, 2009
KitMaker: 419 posts
AeroScale: 378 posts
Joined: January 13, 2009
KitMaker: 419 posts
AeroScale: 378 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 07:39 AM UTC
Looks like you have plenty on your Teller Steffan. How did the BF-110 sneak in there?
Slow and steady for me today. Touched up some of the camo, added mottling, stripes and another coat of Future. I'll resist the temptation to push on until the Future cures in a day or two.
I'm pretty much over acrylic primers. Even with Tamiya tape, days of curing between colors and careful attention I had two incidents of paint lifting down to the plastic. While I'm pleased that I've gotten good at touch ups I'm pretty much sick of it. From now on its nice, plastic biting, enamels for my priming jobs.
Slow and steady for me today. Touched up some of the camo, added mottling, stripes and another coat of Future. I'll resist the temptation to push on until the Future cures in a day or two.
I'm pretty much over acrylic primers. Even with Tamiya tape, days of curing between colors and careful attention I had two incidents of paint lifting down to the plastic. While I'm pleased that I've gotten good at touch ups I'm pretty much sick of it. From now on its nice, plastic biting, enamels for my priming jobs.
Blackwulf
Ohio, United States
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 215 posts
AeroScale: 120 posts
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 215 posts
AeroScale: 120 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 01:44 PM UTC
I have a question for steffen or anyone else who may be knowledgable. Was the RLM 02 color used as an alternate for painting the 190 cockpit interior. I have seen RLM 66 used in most photos. I purchased the eduard color photo etch set for my a-4 and I didnt notice that all instrument panels were painted in RLM 02 until i had started working. I had already painted my cockpit interior RLM66 but I didnt like how it looked after attaching the colored instrument panels. So I ended up painting the tub RLM 02 and I think it looks much better. Only problem would be if this color was never used in the 190. Worst case scenario, I guess i could say that one of the mfg. facilities ran out of RLM66 and had to paint a few cockpits with RLM 02 I would appreciate any insight into this matter!
Blackwulf
Ohio, United States
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 215 posts
AeroScale: 120 posts
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 215 posts
AeroScale: 120 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 02:09 PM UTC
Well, after not being able to find what I was looking for and having to ask for help in the last post, i tried different wording on a google search and found my answer.
PART 1-- COCKPITS
" Reichsluftministrium (RLM) regulations state that prior to November 1941, cockpits/crew areas were to be RLM Green-Gray 02, with the exception of instrument panels, which were Gray with black instrument faces. After November 1941, all cockpit/crew areas visible through the glazing (windows) were to be RLM Black-Gray 66. Instrument panels remained as previously stated. Fuel lines were yellow, oil lines were brown, coolant lines were green, oxygen lines were blue and fire extinguisher lines were red. Here is a general guide of specific aircraft by type arraigned alphabetically. Keep in mind that with any military regulation, variations of implementation and interpretation were often seen."
The plane I am building was manufactured in 1942 so the interior would be RLM66. However, I can't change the instrument panel color. Above it says panels were gray with black instrument faces but it doesnt say what color of gray and I am assuming that they changed the panel color to RLM 66 when they changed colors in 1941. Soooo, my plane will not be quite accurate since I cannot change the panel colors. I think I will repaint the cockpit interior RLM66 so at least it will be correct and just use the statement above which says "variations of implementation and interpretation were often seen" for the panels.
I am assuming that Eduard painted it RLM02 since the photo-etch set is for an A-3. I am not sure why Eduard didn't make an A-4 color photo etch set. I looked on their site and did several google searches and couldn't find one. I know that the A-3 and A-4 were basically the same plane except for a few minor mods and was thinking that maybe that is why Eduard didn't make an A-4 etch set.
Any ideas on what might be the right path to take with the cockpit interior would be appreciated.
PART 1-- COCKPITS
" Reichsluftministrium (RLM) regulations state that prior to November 1941, cockpits/crew areas were to be RLM Green-Gray 02, with the exception of instrument panels, which were Gray with black instrument faces. After November 1941, all cockpit/crew areas visible through the glazing (windows) were to be RLM Black-Gray 66. Instrument panels remained as previously stated. Fuel lines were yellow, oil lines were brown, coolant lines were green, oxygen lines were blue and fire extinguisher lines were red. Here is a general guide of specific aircraft by type arraigned alphabetically. Keep in mind that with any military regulation, variations of implementation and interpretation were often seen."
The plane I am building was manufactured in 1942 so the interior would be RLM66. However, I can't change the instrument panel color. Above it says panels were gray with black instrument faces but it doesnt say what color of gray and I am assuming that they changed the panel color to RLM 66 when they changed colors in 1941. Soooo, my plane will not be quite accurate since I cannot change the panel colors. I think I will repaint the cockpit interior RLM66 so at least it will be correct and just use the statement above which says "variations of implementation and interpretation were often seen" for the panels.
I am assuming that Eduard painted it RLM02 since the photo-etch set is for an A-3. I am not sure why Eduard didn't make an A-4 color photo etch set. I looked on their site and did several google searches and couldn't find one. I know that the A-3 and A-4 were basically the same plane except for a few minor mods and was thinking that maybe that is why Eduard didn't make an A-4 etch set.
Any ideas on what might be the right path to take with the cockpit interior would be appreciated.
Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2009 - 08:18 PM UTC
Hi Patrick
as you alreday found out, except the V1 I think all 190s had a 66 cockpit. Eduard had some batches of their coloured PE that have wrong colours. (I have also one somewhere that is 02 instead of 66)
I would try some dark grey filters/washes to tone down the 02. BTW I bought the A-3 set recently for my A-4 too and it is in a nice dark grey shade
all the best
Steffen
as you alreday found out, except the V1 I think all 190s had a 66 cockpit. Eduard had some batches of their coloured PE that have wrong colours. (I have also one somewhere that is 02 instead of 66)
I would try some dark grey filters/washes to tone down the 02. BTW I bought the A-3 set recently for my A-4 too and it is in a nice dark grey shade
all the best
Steffen
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 12:43 AM UTC
Thanks for the comments, Steffen. It did not look right to me as well, but I could not figure it out.
I mixed one full jar with Tamiya paint for each colour, so now I have paint in the wrong shades for 4-5 WWII German fighters. However, I think I might be able to reuse these colours for late war fighters if I darken them a little.
It is a little late for me to repaint the A3 now as I have applied the decals. I will try to remix my colours for the next projects. Is there any Taniya paint that works straight from the jar for the RLM 74/75/76 colours?
I will try to darken the RLM 76 together with the RLM 74 with some thinned Tamiya smoke. Hopefully this will help on the overall appearance.
As I write this I have a growing suspicion that I might have used my RLM 65 mix for the underside by mistake. I am still messing around in all the RLM numbers......
I have applied the decals. I could not get the decals to conform to the exhaust areas, so I had to cut them free. Then I will repaint the areas in Black.
I mixed one full jar with Tamiya paint for each colour, so now I have paint in the wrong shades for 4-5 WWII German fighters. However, I think I might be able to reuse these colours for late war fighters if I darken them a little.
It is a little late for me to repaint the A3 now as I have applied the decals. I will try to remix my colours for the next projects. Is there any Taniya paint that works straight from the jar for the RLM 74/75/76 colours?
I will try to darken the RLM 76 together with the RLM 74 with some thinned Tamiya smoke. Hopefully this will help on the overall appearance.
As I write this I have a growing suspicion that I might have used my RLM 65 mix for the underside by mistake. I am still messing around in all the RLM numbers......
I have applied the decals. I could not get the decals to conform to the exhaust areas, so I had to cut them free. Then I will repaint the areas in Black.
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 01:24 AM UTC
Hi Jesper
Please do not darken RLM76
have a look at IPMS Stockholm for mixes. I would darken your RLM 74 green with black and lighten the RLM 75 grey violett with a little white, which will make it a bit colder, but that is still o.k. ... but you must check the hues for yourself, as flashes /lighting/ photography influence the appearance pretty much.
Your model is pretty nice, but for me it instantly looks strange, but I could not nail it down at first glance ...
all the best
Steffen
P.S. tell me whats wrong ith this one:
Quoted Text
I will try to darken the RLM 76 together with the RLM 74 with some thinned Tamiya smoke. Hopefully this will help on the overall appearance.
As I write this I have a growing suspicion that I might have used my RLM 65 mix for the underside by mistake. I am still messing around in all the RLM numbers......
Please do not darken RLM76
have a look at IPMS Stockholm for mixes. I would darken your RLM 74 green with black and lighten the RLM 75 grey violett with a little white, which will make it a bit colder, but that is still o.k. ... but you must check the hues for yourself, as flashes /lighting/ photography influence the appearance pretty much.
Your model is pretty nice, but for me it instantly looks strange, but I could not nail it down at first glance ...
all the best
Steffen
P.S. tell me whats wrong ith this one:
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 02:02 AM UTC
Well, colourwise the 262 looks OK to me. Maybe that is my whole problem.
I get your point on the RLM 76. I will just darken the RLM 74.
I get your point on the RLM 76. I will just darken the RLM 74.
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 02:21 AM UTC
Well, sadly it is not o.k colour wise
It is an early (for Me 262) RLM 74/75/76 scheme. I used Vallejo colours and their RLM 74 is(at least was) actually blue gray and not green gray... only noticed it when the masks were off the model, thus I left it as it is .... could still bite my a$$.
all the best
Steffen
It is an early (for Me 262) RLM 74/75/76 scheme. I used Vallejo colours and their RLM 74 is(at least was) actually blue gray and not green gray... only noticed it when the masks were off the model, thus I left it as it is .... could still bite my a$$.
all the best
Steffen
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 02:42 AM UTC
Well, nice to know I am not the only one making mistakes, although in my book your mistake is a minor mistake.
I will see what I can get out of my FW-190 tonight. No matter what I get from it - those eagle heads on the side of the fuselage will probably take the attention away from the shades of the colours.
I will see what I can get out of my FW-190 tonight. No matter what I get from it - those eagle heads on the side of the fuselage will probably take the attention away from the shades of the colours.
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 10:49 AM UTC
since we are on topic of colours and I'm getting around to painting my jv44 dora.
The instructions from hobyboss call out 83/75 over 66!!!?!
Eh?
I've made a light blue /gray with 3:1 XF2 to XF23. and that looks ok.
Any ideas for what the top colours should be? I just don't trust the
colour call out from the kit.
I've also painted the wheel wells drak grey i.e. RLM 66 is alright?
Thanks JP
The instructions from hobyboss call out 83/75 over 66!!!?!
Eh?
I've made a light blue /gray with 3:1 XF2 to XF23. and that looks ok.
Any ideas for what the top colours should be? I just don't trust the
colour call out from the kit.
I've also painted the wheel wells drak grey i.e. RLM 66 is alright?
Thanks JP
rv1963
New York, United States
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Joined: December 07, 2004
KitMaker: 1,888 posts
AeroScale: 39 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 01:17 PM UTC
A couple of pics of the finished engine, i like the detail of the kit engine but i did add a few detais and some washes, the onle change i need to make is to paint the fan black. The hardest part of this build is now finished now i can get to the painting.
Blackwulf
Ohio, United States
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 215 posts
AeroScale: 120 posts
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 215 posts
AeroScale: 120 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 06:57 PM UTC
I found this JP:
Wheel wells
Now for the area you've been waiting for. Few regulations specific to the wheel well area exist, company and factories instructions usually deciding the matter. In keeping with standard practices as identified above, wheel wells and components should have been RLM 02. This includes tail wheel and nose wheel areas. Main gear and nose wheel struts were painted RLM 02, with the exception of the polished steel oleo area. Shock absorbers were a very dark gray, again with the exception of the polished steel telescopic sections. Cast and stamped wheel hubs were painted in semi-gloss black. Tail wheel hubs were usually unpainted (dark gray), or painted the underside color.
Hope this is right!! (found this on a website somewhere in google land)
Wheel wells
Now for the area you've been waiting for. Few regulations specific to the wheel well area exist, company and factories instructions usually deciding the matter. In keeping with standard practices as identified above, wheel wells and components should have been RLM 02. This includes tail wheel and nose wheel areas. Main gear and nose wheel struts were painted RLM 02, with the exception of the polished steel oleo area. Shock absorbers were a very dark gray, again with the exception of the polished steel telescopic sections. Cast and stamped wheel hubs were painted in semi-gloss black. Tail wheel hubs were usually unpainted (dark gray), or painted the underside color.
Hope this is right!! (found this on a website somewhere in google land)
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 09:12 PM UTC
Nice engine, Robert. Will it be visible when the bird is finished?