Poor Larsa. You'll have to come up with new techniques to wow us all with now, if everyone starts copying you!
Looks great!
What are the alu cans for in the process?
Really keen to see this one completed as I have the old revell 1/72 se5a to do this new year and I need inspiration.

Hey JP,

There is some sheet "aluminum can" in the build. The largest piece is the upper engine cowling. Styrene just isn't thin enough, and "aluminum can" can me beat into shape as in the real thing........as it IS the real thing.

Larsa still owns the patent on the "Larsa technique"............much more practice.........and I KNOW he has lots of others hidden up his sleeve.

Regards
Steve

That’s looking real good to me, and hey I don’t know if I invented this technique I just copy it myself I think. Stephen and I had some debate off the authentic in this method.
I never liked the technique with cutting stripes off decals and adding them over the wings ribs. The tiny stripes off decals always shattered when handling them.

For me I’m just stashing up empty beercans for future projects, must say that all this handiwork with the thin alu is inspiring


Your choice off colour brown looking just right, I’ve seen folks go for black and the result is just too strong.
And the leading edge, I always try to do this in stages. You go blind that easy when cutting all these tapes.

Larsa Q

Larsa,

Thank you for your support on the "Larsa Technique". I was going to do the top of the wing shading in Dark Brown or even black...........only because the top coat will be dark itself. The Tan shading on the bottom of the wing will work with the near white topcoat. I had to battle with myself to keep from doing the black............I did that with the thoughts that the topcoat might be put on thinned to depict age and fading. I'm a ways from painting though.

Regards
Steve

Most impressive Steve ! Turned out really great . Can't wait to see the rigging method you will use and the rest of the build .

Hush Now...........don't even use the "R" word. I'm getting closer to choosing my "R" method. PART of Poland PE won't work. My turnbuckles are too "old school" for the SE.

Regards
Steve

Wow, that 'Larsa taping" is a bear. Finished off the preshading of both wings. Haven't even thought about the tail planes yet.





Regards
Steve

Looking good Steve, Congratulations!!!

Keep sticking with it. Its coming along nicely.

Stay Focused..........Stay focused.........got my eye on some other "plastic"..........Stay Focused........Stay Focused!

I now have my "plan" for the rigging. Might not be the "best" but it's what I'm gonna go with.

Regards
Steve

Very nice job on the pre-shading Steve . Shaping up nicely . Looking forward to more !

Thanks Terri,

There will be more......I'm keeping focus.....the preshading brought me more into focus......it will be interesting to see how the top coats do with it.

Regards
Steve

Grab the beercans folks, He´s got it. Awesome. You´re turning this into a jewel my friend

Please don´t mess it up with the final colours now, be gentle with the airbrush when you come to the PC12.

Larsa

Beercans? PC12?? I was gonna use US Army Olive Drab................ Actually I have all my "stuff" ready. I usually use enamal but this is the first time using acrylic......so hopefully it won't get flung into the wall. Going to pre-fade the PC12.

Like the rigging? I'm procrastinating. Got to drill some holes for the rigging and bolt on a few pieces of PE.

Regards
Steve

From the Laws of Modeling101. ". . .17.) Tossing a finished, expensive model kit against the furthest wall in your basement at 90mph is the most sincerest form of self-criticism. But doesn't live up to the acclaimed rush that is supposed to follow. . ."

to Law #17. Must keep from consuming before and during painting to keep from invoking Law #17.

Got to stay focused.

Regards
Steve

USED TO ENAMELS ? USING ACRYLICS ?

YOUVE COME TOO FAR TO FLUB NOW>

THIS MAY BE STATEING THE OBVIOUS TO AN EXPERINCED ACRYLIC USER AND MAY SOUND INSANE TO STRICTLY AN ENAMEL USER BUT HERE IT IS ANYWAY :

As well as carefull thining and a low pressure to spray. Thinners may include any commerical Acrylic Thinnner as well as a Distilled Water and Isopropyl Alchol mix.

Use ONLY a Variable Output Pressure Compressor Set to 10-15psi. Many Common Acrylic Paint Spraying Problems are directly related to using too High an Air Pressure even if some colors appear to be spraying fine.

Noraml UN-Regulated Air Pressures which work fine for ENAMELS ARE TOO HIGH fro Acrylics. PERIOD. Depending on the paint it may even seem as if it is working at first BUT The Higher Tempetures inside the gun cuased by even the slightly higher enamel air pressure (20-25psi) WILL begin pre-maturely drying the Acrylic mid AIr on its way to the surface leaving a thin misting coat and porr coverage. Eventually it will begin drying to the internal parts of the gun creating SPitting and finally end in Clogging.

Enamels spray well under a low air pressure too. SO PLEASE Adjust the compressor output to 10-15psi Max. for acrylic spratying good results.

IF you dont have a reegulator there ARE AM Accessories which can bolt on inline with any compressor and you can adjust it. OR Target and others sell ready made adjustable compressors with holding tanks and variable output pressor knobs FOR CHEAP (almost as cheap as the price of the Kit)

YOurs MIKE

wwww.misterkitusa.com

Hello Mike,

Very interesting that you should "pop-up" on the grid.................it would seem that I have the Mr Kit paints sitting right here waiting to go. Didn't want to waste any, so i did a test shot using Tamiya Olive Drab on a wing that had been lying around. No, I ain't a gonna post THAT photo.

Yes, new to Acrylics. I'm having more issues with my cleaning of the airbrush than painting....in my mind at least.

Trial an error on test subjects, found what you stated is true.

What I did for the test shot was to preshade as in the SE5 then shoot a VERY thinned OD with a touch of white into a thin coating....very thin. Adding layers after that. I found that the "adding layers" is dangerous as it gets dark quickly. I ran the brush front to back, and back to front in conjunction with the tapes.

The preshading shows up only slightly and differently under different lighting angles. Interesting character to the wing.

The plan is to have a weathered appearance. My plan is to ONLY do a thin coat the first time around to give me something to look at and critique...........I'll post one of those shots.........but i still have to drill my rigging holes.

I will say that I am mildly happy with the test shot. Even the darker areas are light.

Regards
Steve

Cleaning is easy with Acrylics.

I have used Acrylics pretty much exclusively for years now (I only use enamels and laquers for detailed brush work). After a spray session, I put a couple of cups of denatured alcohol (Methylated spirits) through the brush to clean up. After a day or so though, I will do a quick strip down to make sure that the needle and nozzle are completely clean.... This too is done with the alcohol.

Denatured Alcohol is also an innexpensive alternative for thinning acrylics. I buy it in 5 litre containers at my local supermarket.

Can't wait to see your photos.

Cheers.

Hugh

Thanks Hugh,

I use denatured alcohol too and lots of it. I do find that there is a slight residue thats left and gums up sometimes. I do a stripdown after every shoot. I also shoot teflon bike oil through it for in between shoots, just to keep it from freezing up.

And i'm NOT going to be flinging it against a wall...........at least it isn't planned. I was too happy with the test shoot. That motivated me to get started drilling my rigging holes. I guess the top of the upper wing will get painted last. Pity as i wanted to see it shot with PC12.............like NOW.

I also THANK everyone for his and her inputs. It's helped. Now.....STAY focused.

Regards
Steve

Can I ask why we are laking about PC12 instead of PC10?
I thought PC12 was pretty much an RNAS standard and that PC10 was more the standard for RFC machines.

Sorry to be a pedant.

Cheers,

Hugh

Steve , I do the same as Hugh . I only spray with acrylics and use oils for detail work . I always clean my airbrush after every use and when I change colours . Clean up is always done with Alcohol ( dollar store for a buck ! ) and then I run just water through . Clear windex can also be used as a thinner and for clean up . Works very well with Vallego paints . Once you get used to them you will wish you made the change over years ago !

Pedants are good sometimes........ PC10

Regards
Steve

Teehee

I checked my comprssor last night. After Mg's post I was worried that I was using too much pressure.

The dial on my regulator only goes up to 15 Psi... And geven that the compressor has no resevior, and the needle only stays stationary when actually spraying, it's hard to actually see what pressure I am spraying at without getting paint every where... Butit's somewhere around the 12 Psi mark.

Cheers,

Hugh

Hugh,

It's bad when the "teacher" shows up to check your work........ .......Mike had me checking my compresser also. Mine does have a reservoir but a very crude adjuster and gauge. I "Guess" I'm pumping out about 15-19 psi..........or 5, who knows. I can attest to the "drying while in-flight" characteristics............

I'm glad i did a test shot on an old wing..........now I'm ready. I've been laying in my rigging anchors. When thats done and the Gear supports get attached.............I may be ready to paint....at least the first layer.

Regards
Steve