Apply sticky masking tape to the affected area and slowly peel off. Hopefully the masking stuff will come off as well. Or else, apply the micromask again except a bit thicker this time and it may get it off.
Good luck Sir!

@ Warren: thanks for the information, it worked great on a little project of mine.

Bob

Okay I didn't mean to but I've totally repainted it now. So many layers it must be approaching 1/32 now. This is my very first mottling attempt. It's serviceable, but something's off. Just can't quite put my finger on it. Onward and upward, I may be able to decal it tomorrow!

Richard, don't you just love those "I did not mean its" that turn out great. Your paint job looks really fine, keep up the great work.

Bob

I'm in with my HQII leftover 1/32 F-16A, and possibly two 1/48s: an Albatross DIII and an He178.







Keith

Decalsss...

I had a paint coming free on the tail so I applied a nice coat of testors glosscote. Then I decaled, then I futured on the glosscote. But the future looks a bit sweaty and seems to be drying oddly.

Did I done a bad???

If you did you can use Windex to take the Future off and try again.

That's what I like about this forum, one learn so much.

I tried that. On a test mule. I can't get results. I have to be ginger because the decals are unprotected under the future and because this model has peeled more than its fair share of paint.

It's a bit orange peel ish, I'm just going to spray another coat or two to level it out.

I don't know why but I never get results with future. I think I might just switch to microgloss and be done with it.

I have the undercarriage and payload racks on now. Nearing the finish line.

I have added some straight ammonia to my windex to give it a little more strength, just put a teaspoon at a time to the bottle of windex until it does the trick.

Does orange peel indicate that one of the earlier coats wasn't fully cured before a later coat went on? Or is the "orange peel ish" not the same as the sommon spray paint problem? I imagine the problem is difficult to photograph for discussion, being more of a fine texture thing and not a color or shape that shows up well in photos.
thanks for posting,
Sean H.

I've been doing a bit on my entry (or maybe entries). I sanded off the knockout marks on the B-52 main gear doors. I have been playing around with painting areas Gloss White with little success. I searched Aeroscale on tips and have started priming the parts with Flat Light Gray (which seems to be coating better). After this I might put a coat of Flat White and then a coat of Gloss White.

I have been experimenting mostly on the Dragon 1/200 B-2/F-117A kit so I might get these done for this campaign as well. Unfortunately I forgot to any weight in the F-117 nose so it's a tail sitter.

Here is the B-2/F-117A kit before I started experimenting.

Great to hear your progress, Gary! Yes, I've learned to use primer on everything. I use generic spray can primer, but I've read good things here about Tamiya's primers too.
-Sean

@ Sean: is it the paint drying before it reaches the surface? If so a little retarder may help.

@ Gary: I have found that the old Foguil primer does stick to plastic forming a surface that any paint will adere to.

Bob

I'm in with eduards Mirage III

Hopefully that will get one more box out of the hobby room

Ier will enlist with either a 1/144 Hastings, or a ex-Hangar Queen Eduard Camel in 1/48 or a Revell 1/48 C-47 that has been kicking around for years

My entry for this campaign, it's been getting a bit of attention about once a month or so.



Why is this little thing stuck in the hanger? It has tricycle landing gear and is a guaranteed tailsitter... the main issue is that the plane is so thin in profile and the nose is so narrow that I am going to have to get seriously creative with getting weight in the front of the aircraft. Right now I am leaning towards epoxy and few nickels or dimes. It is a light model so I don't think too many should be required.

I have also had to box in the cockpit and jet intakes so that you can't see right through them, which is still an ongoing process.

Welcome aboard CAM, Andrew, and Van. It is nice to see everyone try to finish off some of those QUEENS.

@ Cam: I had come close purchasing that kit several times, but talked myself out of it at the last moment, how is the fit? Yours looks good so far.

@ Andrew: Hello again and I know that if you are not that busy with other campaigns or projects then maybe you can build all of those mentiioned to clear your work bench.

@ Van: Interesting subject that you have there, tell us how the kit stacks up and neat tip on the cockpit.

Bob

The kit is very cleanly molded for a PM model kit (If you have built their other kits they can sometimes be a disaster). The biggest problem is that it is terribly terribly basic. As I said if I had not added the pieces of scratch styrene shown in the picture you would be able to see from one intake to the other and also straight into the cockpit from the jet intakes.

And strangely, I never prime my models and have never had a problem. Maybe I have been lucky so far.

Bob the eduard kit goes together like a dream. My biggest reasons for not finishing the kit were my mistakes in building it. As an armour modeller I don't have to worry about things like the stores pylons not going on until after those beautiful decals for example.That and having to pack and move 500 miles relegated the kit to the "in progress" pile.

I never have either but most of the kits I've painted were a dark color (Panzer Grey or Olive Drab). I am also hand painting these small areas.

quote ( That and having to pack and move 500 miles relegated the kit to the "in progress" pile. )

I can relate to that problem Cam, I am still unpacking after a year.

Bob

Hi All,

Having returned from my Overseas sojourn and seeing a few interesting subjects being added to the campaign, I'll get back to the RAAF F 111